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HANDICRAFT SERIES {continued), r -^asL 

Glass Working by Heat and Abrasion. With 300 Engravingsr..^.'' . 
and Diagrams. 

Contents. — Appliances used in Glass Blowing. Manipulating Glass Tubing. 
Blowing Bulbs and Flasks. Jointing Tubes to Bulbs forming Thistle Funnels, 
etc. Blowing and Etching Glass Fancy Articles ; Embossing and Gilding Flat 
Surfaces. Utilising Broken Glass Apparatus ; Boring Holes in, and Riveting 
Glass. Hand-working of Telescope Specula. Turning, Chipping, and Grinding 
Glass. The Manufacture of Glass, 
Building: iVIodel Boats. With 168 Engravings and Diagrams. 

Contents.— ^\i\\(}i\xiz Model Yachts. Rigging and Sailing Model Yachts. 
Making and Fitting Simple Model Boats. Building a Model Atlantic Liner. 
Vertical Engine for a Model Launch. Model Launch Engine with Reversing 
Gear. Making a Show Case for a Model Boat. 

Electric Bells, How to Make and Fit Them. With 162 En- 
gravings and Diagrams. 

Cofitents. — The Electr c Current and the Laws that Govern it. Current 
Conductors used in Electric-Bell Work. Wiring for Electric Bells. Elaborated 
Systems of Wiring ; Burglar Alarms. Batteries for Electric Bells. The Con- 
struction of Electric Bells, Pushes, and Switches. Indicators for Electric-Bell 
Systems. 
Bamboo Work. With 177 Engravings and Diagrams. 

Contents. — Bamboo ; Its Sources and Uses. How to Work Bamboo. Bamboo 
Tables. Bamboo Chairs and Seats. Bamboo Bedroom Furniture. Bamboo 
Hall Racks and Stands. Bamboo Music Racks. Bamboo Cabinets and Book- 
cases. Bambco Window Blinds. Miscellaneous Articles of Bamboo. Bamboo 
Mail Cart. 
Taxidermy. With 108 Engravings and Diagrams. 

Cimtents.— '^Vvciv\\n% Birds. Staffing and Mounting Birds. Skinning and 
Stuffing Mammals. Mounting Animals' Horned Heads : Polishing and Mount- 
ing Horns. _ Skinning, Stuffing, and Casting Fish. Preserving, Cleaning, and 
Dyeipg Skins. Preserving Insects, and Birds' Eggs. Cases for Mounting 
Specimens. 
Tailoring;. With 180 Engravings and Diagrams. 

Contents. — Tailors' Requisites and Methods of Stitching. Simple Repairs 
and Pressing. Relining, Repocketing, and Recollaring. How to Cut and 
Make Trousers. How to Cut and Make Vests. Cutting and Making Lounge 
and Reefer Jackets. Cutting and Making Morning and Frock Coats. 
Photographic Cameras and Accessories. Comprising How to 
Make Cameras, Dark Sliles, Shutters, and Stands. With 160 
Illustrations. 

Consents. — Photographic Lenses and How to Test them. Modern Half-plate 
Cameras. Hand and Pocket Cameras. Ferrotype Cameras. Stereoscopic 
Cameras. Enlarging Cameras. Dark Slides. Cinematograph Management. 

Optical Lanterns. Comprising The Construction and Management 
OF Optical Lanterns and the Making of Slides. With 160 
Illustrations. 
Contents. — Single Lanterns. Dissolving View lanterns. Illuminant for 
Optical Lanterns. Optical Lantern Accessories. Conducting a Limelight 
Lantern Exhibition. Experiments with Optical Lanterns. Painting Lantern 
Slides. Photographic Lantern Slides. Mechanical Lantern Slides. Cinemato- 
graph Management. 

Eng^raving: Metals. With Numerous Illustrations. 

Contents. — Introduction and Terms used. Engravers' Tools and their Uses. 
Elementary Exercises in Engraving. Engraving Plate and Precious Metals. 
Engraving Monograms. Transfer Processes of Engraving Metals. Engraving 
Name Plates. Engraving Coffin Plates. Engraving Steel Plates. Chasing 
and Embossing Metals. Etching Metals. 

Basket Work. With 189 Illustrations. 

Contents. — Tools and Materials. Simple Baskets. Grocer's Square Baskets. 
Round Baskets. Oval Baskets. Flat Fruit Baskets. Wicker Elbow Chairs. 
Basket Bottle-casings. Doctors' and Chemists' Baskets. Fancy Basket Work. 
Sussex Trug Basket. Miscellaneous Basket Work. Index 

DAVID McKAY, Publisher, 1022 Market Street, Philadelphia. 



HANDICRAFT SERIES (continued). 

Bookbinding. With 125 Engravings and Diagrams. 

Contents. — Bookbinders' Appliances. Folding Printed Book Sheets. Beat-_ 
ingand Sewing. Rounding, Backing, and Cover Cutting. Cutting Book Edges," 
Covering Books. Cloth-bound Books, Pamphlets, etc. Account Books, 
Ledgers, etc. Coloring, Sprinkling, and Marbling Book Edges. Marbling 
Book Papers. Gilding Book Edges. Sprinkling and Tree Marbling Book 
Covers. Lettering, Gilding, and Finishing Book Covers. Index. 
Bent Iron \A/ork. including Elementary Art Metal Work. With 
269 Engravings and Diagrams. 

Contents. — Tools and Materials. Bending and Working Strip Iron. Simple 
Exercises in Bent Iron. Floral Ornaments for Bent Iron Work. Candlesticks. 
Hall Lanterns. Screens, Grilles, etc. Table Lamps. Suspended Lamps and 
Flower Bowls. Photograph Frames. Newspaper Rack. Floor Lamps. 
Miscellaneous Examples. Index. 

Photography. With 70 Engravings and Diagrams. 

Contents. — The Camera and its Accessories. The Studio and Darkroom. 
Plates. Exposure. Developing and Fixing Negatives. Intensification and 
Reduction of Negatives. Portraiture and Picture Composition. Flashlight 
Piiotography. Retouching Negatives. Processes of Printing from Negatives. 
Mounting and Finishing Prints. Copying and Enlarging. Stereoscopic 
Photography. Ferrotype Photography. Index. 

Upholstery. With 162 Engravings and Diagrams. 

C^w/^wzf.y.— "Upholsterers' Materials. Upholsterers' Tools and Appliances. 
Webbing, Springing, Stuffing, and Tufting. Making Seat Cushions and Squabs. 
Upholstering an Easy Chair. Upholstering Couches and Sofas. Upholstering 
Footstools, Fenderettes, etc. Miscellaneous Upholstery. Mattress Making 
and Repairing. Fancy Upholstery. Renovating and Repairing Upholstered 
Furniture. Planning and Laying Carpets and Linoleum. Index. 

Leather Working. With 152 Engravings and Diagrams. 

Contents. — Qualities and Varieties of Leather. Strap Cutting and Making. 
Letter Cases and Writing Pads. Hair Brush £ind Collar Cases. Hat Cases. 
Banjo and Mandoline Cases. Bags. Portmanteaux and Travelling 7'runks. 
Knapsacks and Satchels. Leather Ornamentation. Footballs. Dyeing 
Leather. Miscellaneous Examples of Leather Work, Index. 

Harness Making. With 197 Engravings and Diagrams. 

Contents. — Harness Makers' Tools. Harness Makers' Materials. Simple 
Exercises in Stitching. Looping. Cart Harness. Cart Collars. Cart Saddles. 
Fore Gear and Leader Harness. Plough Harness. Bits, Spurs, Stirrups, and 
Harness Furniture. Van and Cab Harness. Index. 

Saddlery. With 99 Engravings and Diagrams. 

Contents. — Gentleman's Riding Saddle. Panel for Gentleman's Saddle. 
Ladies' Side Saddles. Children's Saddles or Pilches. Saddle Cruppers, Breast- 
plates, and other Accessories. Riding Bridles. Breaking-down Tackle Head 
Collars. Horse Clothing. Knee-caps and Miscellaneous Articles. Repairing 
Harness and Saddlery. Re-lining Collars and Saddles. Riding and Driving 
Whips. Superior Set of Gig Harness. Index. 

Other Volumes in Preparation, 



DAVID McKAY, Publisher, 1022 Market Street, Philadelphia. 



<• WORK'' HANDBOOK,'^ 



SADDLERY 



SADDLERY 



WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVJXGS AND DIAGRAMS 



EDITED BY 

PAUL K HASLUCK 

EDITOR OF "work" AND "BUILDING WORLD," 
AUTHOR OF "HANDYBOOKS FOR HANDYCRAFT3," ETC. ETC. 



PHILADELPHIA 
DAVID McKAY, Publisher 

1022 MARKET STREET 
1904 



H ^G 







1 



PREFACE. 



> This Handbook contains, in form convenient for 
^ everyday use, a comprehensive digest of the know- 
ledge of saddlery, scattered over more than twenty 
thousand columns of Work— one of the weekly 
journals it is my fortune to edit— and supplies concise 
information on the details of the subjects of which 
it treats. 

In preparing for publication in book form the mass 
of relevant matter contained in the volumes of Work, 
much had to be arranged anew. However, it may be 
stated that a great part of the contents of this 
Handbook consists substantially of matter contributed 
by a working saddler. 

Headers who may desire additional information 
respecting special details of the matters dealt with in 
this Handbook, or instructions on kindred subjects, 
should address a question to Work, so tliat it may 
be answered in the columns of that journal 

P. K HASLUCK. 

La Bile Sauvage, Lcndon, 
May, 1901. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER 
I.- 


-Gentleman's Riding Saddle .... 


PAGE 

9 


II.- 


-Panel for Gentleman's Saddle 


21 


IIL- 


-Ladies' Side Saddles 


26 


IV.- 


-Children's Saddles or Pilches . 


36 


V.- 


-Saddle Cruppers, Breastplates, and other 
Accessories 


40 


VI.- 


-Riding Bridles . . • . 


51 


VIL- 


-Breaking-down Tackle 


59 


VIIL- 


-Head Collars 


64 


IX.- 


—Horse Clothing 


•70 


X.- 


-Knee-caps and Miscellaneous Articles 


81 


XI.- 


—Repairing Harness and Saddlery 


89 


XII.- 


—Re-lining Collars and Saddles . 


103 


XIIL- 


—Whips, Hunting Crops, etc. 


113 


XIV. 


-Set of Gig Harness 


133 




Index 


157 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



FIG 






PAGE 


1.- 


-Saddle Tree . 


. 


10 


2.- 


-Gentleman's R i d 


i n g 






Saddle . . 




11 


3.- 


-Saddle Skirt . 


, 


15 


4.- 


-Saddle Flap . 


, 


17 


5. 


-Saddle Panel . 




23 


6. 


-Tree for Side Saddle . 


27 


7.- 


-Lady's Near-side 


Flap 






and Safe . 


. 


31 


8.- 


-Lady's Saddle 


with 






Quilted Skirt 


and 






Leaping Head. 




34 


9.- 


-Saddle Crupper 




41 


10.- 


-Saddle Breastplate 




43 


11.- 


-Martingale 




43 


12.- 


-Saddle Girth 






44 


13.- 


-Saddle Girth 






45 


14.- 


-Saddle Girth 






46 


15.- 


-Saddle Girth 






47 


16.- 


-Saddle Girth 






48 


17. 


-Saddle Cloth 






49 


18. 


-Riding Bridle 






52 


19.- 


-Pelham Bridle 






55 


20.- 


—Weymouth Bridle 




55 


21. 


—Breaking-down Tackle . 


61 


22. 


— Cavison Iron . 


. 


62 


23. 


-Newmarket Head Collar 


65 


24.- 


-Albert Head Collar 


. 


66 


25. 


-Queen's Pattern 


Head 






Collar 




67 


26. 


—Quarter Sheet 






71 


27.- 


-Breast Cloth 






72 


28. 


-Pad Cloth . 






73 


29.- 


-Hood . . 






74 


30.- 


—Horse Covered 






75 


31. 


—Body Roller 






76 


32. 


—Body Roller 






77 


33, 


34.— Kneecap 






82 


35. 


—Kneecap . 






83 



FIG. 

36.— Fetlock Boot . 
37.— Fetlock Boot . 
38.— Lace Speedy-cut Boot , 
39.— Buckle Speedy-cut Boot 

40. -Ring Boot 

41.— False Collar . 



PAGE 

. 83 

. 84 

. 84 

85 

86 

87 



42.— Complete Set of Harness 91 
43.— Spliced Leather Run . 91 
44.— Hame Tug Clip . . 93 
45.— Spliced Trace . . . 94 
46.— Cab Collar . . . .104 
47.— Lining of Cab Collar . 105 

48.— Collar 107 

49.— Panel Saddle . . .108 
50.—" Swelled " Flap Cab 

Saddle . . . .109 
51.— Panel of " Swelled " 

Cab Saddle . . .110 
52.— Straight Awl . . .111 
53.— Bow-top, or Carter's 

Whip . . . .115 

54.— Drop-thong, or Dealer's 

Whip . . . .115 

55.— Gig or Coaching Whip 115 
56— 58.— Methods of Splicing 

Broken Stock of Whip 

Stock . . . .117 
59.— Method of Joining 

Thong and Stock of 



119 



119 



Drop-thong Whip . 
60.— Method of Fixing Silk 

or Cord Lash to End 

of Whip Thong 
61.— Method of Fixing Silk 

or Cord Lash to End 

of Whip Thong . . 120 
62.— Method of Fixing 

Twisted Gut or Hide 

Point to Carter's Whip 120 



Saddlery. 



FIG. PAGE 

63, 64.— Methods of Joining 
New Plaited Point to 
Old Whip Thong . . 121 

65.— Method of Joining New- 
Plaited Point to Old 
Whip Thong . . .122 

66.— Plaiting Four-stranded 

Square Sennit . . 124 

67.— Plaiting Eight-stranded 

Square Sennit . . 12o 

68.— Plaiting Whip Lash 
witlaout Heart 

69.— Plaiting Whip Lash 
with Heart 

70.— Beginning Groundwork 
or Mesh .... 

71.— Second Course of Mesh . 129 

72 

73, 

74, 



FIG 

78.- 

79.- 
80.- 
81.- 

82.- 
83.- 



126 86. 



75. 



-Mesh Complete 
-Ferrule Complete . 
-Mesh on Single Turk's 
Head .... 

-Single Turk's Head 

Complete 
-Raised Turk's Head 
-Small Button for Hunt- 
ing Crop .... 





87 


127 


83 




89 


128 


90 


129 
129 


91. 


130 


92 


■\xr\ 


93 


iOU 


94 


131 


95 


131 


96. 




97, 


132 


99 



PAGE 

Four-strand Button for 

Hunting Crop . . 132 
Beginning Small Button 132 
Nose-band . . . .133 
Drop, or Breastplate 

Ornament . . .133 
Bradoon Chain . . lo5 
Gig Saddle . . .137 
84. -Gig Saddle Tree . . 137 
85.— Gig Saddle Skirt . . 137 
-Stand Hook . . .137 
-Gig Flap Showing Cuts 139 
-Hame Tug with Safe . 139 
-Gig Tree . . . .143 
-Kicking Strap . . .150 
-Kicking Strap in Three 

Parts . . . .150 

-Melton Rein with Billet 151 
-Laced Rein Hand Part . 151 
-Stuffed Hand Part . . 151 
-Lay on Hand Part . . 151 
Plaited Hand Part . . 151 
)8.— Rein Stops . . .152 
-Breeching Loop Buckle 155 



SADDLERY. 

CHAPTER I. 

gentleman's riding saddle. 

This handbook will treat on practical saddlery as 
more or less distinct from the making and repair- 
ing of harness, which is discussed in a companion 
volume on "Harness Making," where, however, 
will be found full descriptions of all tools, appli- 
ances, and materials necessary for the work. Tlie 
elementary processes of cutting up hides, stitch- 
ing, etc., are also explained in the volume on 
"Harness Making," and bits, spurs, stirrups, and 
furniturci of all kinds fully described and illus- 
trated. It is assumed here that the worker has 
a general acquaintance with the craft of the har- 
nessi-maker. 

In making a gentleman's riding saddle, the first 
article needed is a tree (Fig. 1), which can be 
bought with a round cantle (the back rising part) 
or with a square one rounded at the corners, and 
running in a straight line at the top. 

The gullet or fore part of the tree is made in 
many styles ; it may be straight or slanting back- 
wards towards the seat, and it can be obtained 
full, half, or quarter cut. The tree may be meas- 
ured along the centre, but the trade method is to 
measure it at the sides ; the seat is measured 
across the widest part. 

There are different styles of saddles both as 
regards work and material— namely, full shafts, 
covered all over with hogskin, with knee-pads or 



lo Saddlery. 

flaps ; all hogskin without knee-pads, a style which 
is called all over hogskin plain flaps ; or full shafts, 
top and solid flaps — that is, the seat and skirts 
are hogskin, and the flap is of solid single-stamped 
leather, plain without knee-pads. 

Another style is called shafts top demi-flap, 
the seat and skirts being covered with hogskin 
and a knee-pad with hogskin on a plain flap. 
Another variety is the half shafts with only solid 
skirts, the seat and flaps being covered with hog- 
skin and having knee-pads on flaps. The com- 
monest style, however, is a hogskin seat with solid 
leather skirts and flaps and without knee-pads on 
the flaps. 

The saddle bars to which the stirrup leathers 



Fig. 1.— Saddle Tree. 

are fastened also vary in make and pattern ; there 
is the ordinary spring bar and numerous patent 
bars, the attempt being to obtain a secure fasten- 
ing for the strap and at the same time a loosening 
of it, in case of accident, to prevent the rider 
being dragged along by the foot. 

The hanging or setting of the flaps is a mere 
matter of taste ; sometimes the bottom slopes 
forw^ard, and sometimes the flap is in a straight 
line with the front of the saddle (see Fig. 2). 

To make a saddle, begin by preparing enough 
straining web to run along the centre twice its 
length and once over, with 4 in. hanging down 
below the tree just outside the saddle bars and 
towards the back. Having damped the web, nail 
each end firmly to a board— unless a web strainer 



Gentleman's Riding Saddle. ii 

is used — and then push something underneath it 
to stretch it to the utmost. 

After letting it dry, damp it once or twice 
according to the stretching necessary, but let it dry 
before being again damped. When stretched, cut 
it in two and nail two ends of it at the head of 
the tree in front, just outside the iron plate, one 
end slanting slightly to one side and the other to 
the opposite side. 

Having pulled them together tight, nail them 
at the back of the tree low down below the cantle 
on the flat loart. This slanting position throws 




Fig. 2. -Gentleman's Eiding Saddle. 

them from 5 in. to 6 in. apart at the back as they 
are required ; with headed saddle tacks nail them 
down closely, and tack the other piece of web 
across close to the saddle bar, bringing it a little 
under the point where the bar is riveted to the 
trees. Let 4 in. hang down on each side, and pull 
it very tightly over the web at the top, nailing it 
down with saddle tacks. 

Next take another piece of web (any diaper 
web will do) and lay it close to the other web 
behind, then nail it down tightly ; but it need not 
hang over. Kun a stitch from one web to the 



12 Saddlery. 

other, joining them across the top. A piece of 
.strong linen, large enough to run from the web 
all round the seat behind, is stitched across to the 
web ; nail it round the sides and.back of the seat, 
covering the points of the web' nailed behind. 

Having pulled it tight, nail it in a position 
which gives the seat when stuffed a suitable rise 
towards the cantle, as this is the ground for the 
stuffing. Now stitch another piece of linen to 
the web in front to cover this part, and nail it 
firmly all round, and the seat will then be covered 
over without hollow but with a foundation for 
stuffing. 

Take a piece of basil leather about 6 in. long 
or a little less, double it together along the centre, 
making it pointed at one end and rather full at 
the other. When stuffed it should be a little 
thicker than the middle finger at the full end, 
tapering away to a fine point at the other. Stitch 
the edges together from one side to the other, 
but not over, and leave a small opening at one 
end, through w^hich the pad can then be stuffed 
smoothly and tightly with flock. The hole must 
now be closed and flattened slightly with the 
mallet. This raises each side of the seat near the 
root of the cantle, the thick end being close to 
the cantle and the fine end running forward. Put 
the pads) in their places on each side, flush with 
the edge of the tree, and, after rounding them to 
follow the shape, nail them on the inside, putting 
a nail in the thick end to fasten it to the cantle 
at the bottom. 

The seat must be covered all over with white 
serge ; nail it over the edge of the cantle and over 
the gullet underneath in front, and underneath 
the sides as far as where the web hangs down by 
the bar. From this point towards the front, back- 
stitch it coarsely to just the shape of the skirt 
and seat; thus the seat is gi*adually narrowed 



Gextlemaxs RiDixG Saddle. 13 

from the bottom to near the front part of tha 
tree, but just in the front it widens slightly. The 
shape must be studied and the stitching done 
accordingly, of course through the foundation and 
cover at this part. 

Now back-stitch the cover through the tree 
for exactly the length of the leather pads placed 
at the sides, in order to draw the cover in a little 
under the side of the pads and allow the seat and 
skirts at the joint of each to enter the hollow when 
the seat is adjusted. 

Rub a patch, about 2^ in. by 1 in., in the centra 
of the cover with a lump of black wax, so that 
it will not unravel when a hole is cut there for 
stuffing. In the centre of this patch cut a slit 
1^ in. long, and, after passing a pound of white 
flock through the carding machine three or four 
times and clipping the woolj if long, with scissors, 
put it through the opening in small quantities. 
Use the seat iron for this work, moving the flock 
about to the sides to prevent lumps ; continue 
stuffing until all is firm and level. Pass the left 
hand over the seat to ascertain that there is no 
unevenness, and level it with the seat awl held 
in the right hand ; great care is needed to perform 
this operation properly. When the stuffing is fin- 
ished a stitch must be run in the opening. 

The seat, which should be cut from a piece of 
good hogskin large enough to cover the seat well 
and be nailed underneath, can now be adjusted. 
Damp and nail it on firmly, taking care that it is 
quite smooth in all parts ; nail it underneath over 
the sides and at the back in such a manner that 
the nails can easily be pulled out with a claw, and 
that no mark will be left when the saddle is 
finished. Any mark would be visible and would 
stain the leather, thus completely spoiling the 
work. Pull it together behind the cantle so as to 
make all the small pleats form two large ones, 



14 Saddlery. 

one on each side of the crupper staple ; thus they 
can be cut and the edges stitched neatly together 
when dry. 

After letting the seat dry, cut the skirts (Fig. 3) 
from a flat piece of brown skirt leather, and cover 
them with hogskin, which must be pasted over 
them before stitching and then allowed to dry ; 
or paste a piece of serge on them, running to 
within \ in. from the edge all round, and, when 
dry, cover them with hogskin and stitch without 
pasting. 

Before either covering or stitching, cut a piece 
of hogskin belly to run at a distance of 1 in. from 
the edge along the under part of the skirt to 
within 4 in. from the narrow point and 1^ in. be- 
yond in front, but low enough down to be nailed 
under the tree when the skirt is in place. Paste 
some linen on the flesh side of this for lining, and 
when it has dried put it in position on the skirt 
and cut holes through the skirt over the edge with 
a sJioemaker's bent aw^l. The holes must not go 
through, but only be raised in the grain, which 
will be the under &ide w^hen the skirt is finished. 

Stitch on the hogskin cover, making fine 
stitches with yellow hemp, silk, or white linen 
thread, and beeswax near the edge. Run a row 
of stitches along the top | in. from the edge from 
end to end, and then rub, polish, and finisli well. 
When the piece to be nailed to the tree is dry, 
stitch it with fine cord beeswax thread through the 
holes previously made. Next prepare the flaps. 

Knee-pads must be put in the front part of each 
flap along the side ; then add the serge cover for 
stuffing, which must reach from the point of \hQ 
Sikirt to the bottom, and be of the same shape 
as the flap on the outside and straight on the 
inside to within 3 in. of the top, and thence turned 
round to the front. Spot the serge in from un- 
derneath, marking the straight line with a rule 



Gentleman's Riding Saddle, 15 

and creasing the outer line far enough inside to 
allow of stitching over again between it and the 
edge. 

Slip two or three stitches just at the turning 
from the straight line at the top, bringing the 
thread over the serge so that there will be a hollow 
to stuff through before making another stitch. 
Then take the flap or shafteau block, and through 
the flap put a nail into the board in each end of 
the pad ; stuff it full and evenly through the open- 
ing left for the purpose, moving the flock to its 
place with the seat awl. Give the pad a good 
shape, full in front and sloping towards the inside. 



Fig. 3.— Saddle Skirt. 

A small flat padding must also be placed on 
the opposite side of the flap at the top corner 
just below the swelling of the skirts from the 
narrow part over the flap. Spot a piece of serge 
slack there exactly the same shape as this corner 
of the skirt, and straight towards the bottom edge 
of the flap. A small opening like that in the 
knee-pad must be left for stuffing ; fill it level. 
The flaps must be cut in pairs, and, like the skirts, 
should be made with the grain side underneath 
outside. 

When the pads are on the flap, paste a piece of 
hogskin over them ; then let them dry on the 
shafteau block to its shape. The hogskin must 
always be damped before the paste is applied, 
then pulled tightly over, and the nails must be 
placed so that their marks can be cut off. A band 



i6 Saddlery. 

of leather will also be needed along the straight 
side of the knee-pad to keep the hogskin close 
to the flap. Along the front run a smooth piec3 
of string (nailing it at each end) to pull the hog- 
skin into the hollow along the edge between the 
flap and the pad ; let them thus dry. On removal 
from the block, cut the hogskin close to the edge 
of tha flap and stitch the hogskin on firmly all 
round, and finish neatly, levelling the edges with 
sandpaper before polishing. 

When the seat is dry the skirts must be stitched 
to it, the hogskin cover of the skirt being | in. 
larger than the skirt along the top for stitching 
to the seat. Shave the edge of the hogskin to be 
stitched slightly, and, without removing the seat, 
place the skirt on the side of the saddle exactly 
in the position it should occupy when finished. 
It is better to arrange both skirts at the same 
time, employing tacks to keep them in place. 
Mark a line along the seat on the edge of the 
skirt, and also mark the various positions of the 
several parts of the skirt on the seat, so that if 
the former happens to stretch a little when being 
stitched, it can be pulled to place during work. 
Dots may be made with pen and ink in such 
a manner as not to be visible when the seat and 
skirt are stitched. 

Before removing the seat from the tree, run 
a sharp knife along the mark from end to end of 
the skirt. Take enough dogskin welt to reach 
from end to end of the upper edge of the skirt 
and about 1 in. beyond ; whip it to the edge of 
the skirt from end to end, employing single linen 
thread for the purpose, and making the stitches 
quite regular, so that when the seat is put in, the 
stitches can be run through the same holes. The 
welt must only just show when the leathers on 
either side are joined. 

Having damped the edges a little, back-stitch 



Genj-leman's Riding Saddle. 



7 



the seat to the skirt, using a pointed needle and 
thimble, and employing the holes by which the 
welt was whipped ; take care that the marks on 
the seat and skirt are exactly opposite. The pieces 
used in nailing the skirt and seat to the tree must 
be separate by 4 in. from the narrow part, and 
when these parts are being stitched together along 
this distance a piece of the hogskin seat should be 
stitched on with the skirt and seat ; bring it back 
from the point of the skirt to catch the stitches 
in such a manner that the point will run out be- 
tw^een two leathers, the seat being on one side 
and this piece brought back on the other. 




Fig. 4.— Saddle Flap. 



Two pleats must be cut behind the cantle and 
stitched with a pointed needle from underneath, 
the stitches being run half through the leather on 
both sides so as not to be visible on the outside. 
The points of the tree projecting beyond the 
saddle bars must be covered with thin basil or 
hogskin ; damp and paste it down from the front 
round the sides of the point to within 1 in. of the 
bottom and a little above the saddle bar. 

Now adjust the seat and skirts, previously 
damping the seat all over ; be careful that it does 
not get stained whilst damp by contact with iron. 
Nail the front over the gullet underneath the tree, 



i8 Saddlery. 

making the skirts perfectly level like the seat; 
nail it behind close by the edge of the iron plate 
under the tree, and slit it to go through the 
crupper staple. Small pincers may be employed 
to pull it. 

The sides can now be fastened, a nail being 
driven alternately into each so that the seat will 
be quite square and straight. Cut a slit in the 
leather just nailed down, opposite the pieces of 
straining web left hanging, preserving the same 
width of leather as that of the web. Pull the 
leather tight with pincers and drive a row of nails 
through both into the tree. Trim off the surplus 
web and the waste round the seat close to the 
nails. 

To adjust the flaps (Fig. 4), cut a nick upwards 
in front of each, a little wider than the point at 
this particular place, so as to run above it. The 
other portion passes under the tree behind the 
saddle bar, the next cut being above the hanging 
web. The end of this should be cut half-round, 
the farther portion being put round under the 
tree and nailed close to the skirt. Thus when the 
pad is fixed it will fit neatly to the corner of the 
skirt. Then run two or three stitches through the 
web piece and the piece above. 

Now drive a tough silver nail through the top 
of the knee-pad at the point and clinch it under- 
neath ; drive another in the fore part of the other 
flap, and one behind on each side, just below the 
centre of the seat pad ; drive the nail slanting 
through the tree and clinch it. 

The next part needed is a gullet piece to run 
all round the front of the gullet and from the 
point of one flap to the point of the other. To 
make it, cut a piece of brown leather of the re- 
quired length by 1 in. wide, and a piece of hogskin 
slightly wider. Stitch the hogskin on the other 
piece along the edge at the same distance from 



Gentleman s Riding Saddle. 19 

the edges as the stitches on the flaps, and finish 
neatly. Then damp the hogskin and push in a 
piece of cord, pasting the hogskin down after- 
wards ; put the cord close to the stitches from 
end to end and press the hogskin flat on the 
bottom leather inside the cord. 

After punching a hole about \\ in. below where 
the seat and skirt join, slit the hole on the inner 
side and nail it down along the gullet underneath, 
sufficiently close to the tree for the cord to come 
tightly against the edge of the tree. Be careful 
that the slit is at equal distances from the centre 
on both sides ; then raise the other parts below 

I the slits on both sides above the tree to meet the 
ends of the flaps, making them meet the latter 

\ closely. Drive two or three nails into the flap, 
and make sure that the entire front of the piece 
runs in a level line with the edges on both sides 
of the flaps ; then join the gullet piece and flap 
by a stitch below out of sight. 

Another method of joining them is to stitch 
the gullet piece to the end of the flaps by means 
of a hogskin reaching beyond each end of the 

.^ gullet piece ; then stitch these together before 

I adjusting the flaps. 

Take two silver saddle staples and put one leg 
through the point of the flap and the other through 
the gullet piece and the tree ; knock them down to 
their necks and clinch them below. When there 

ris no metal name plate, cut a piece of hogskin 

■ oval, and, having thinned its edges, paste it close 

(to the staple over the nails in the gullet piece and 

its joint with the flaps. The breast plate is fas- 

1 tened to these staples and in some cases to coat 

straps. 

Having cut six stout girth straps 1 in. by 1 ft. 
3 in., shave one end and slant the other into a fine 
point; then edge and rub them. Crease them 
double on the flesh side and turn up the end of 



20 Saddlery. 

the web and leather hanging over the side until 
it is 3 in. long from the tree. Next stitch two 
straps on each side and nail the other straps, one 
on each side close to the first two ; then make 
holes all along them. Then^ in front of the skirt 
on each side at the point of the row of stitching, 
along the top, drive one tough nail and clinch it 
under the tree. 

Two pear-shaped underskirts must next be cut 
and placed on each side under the straps ; they 
should reach from the tree to a little more than 
halfway dov/n the straps. Crease the underskirt 
with the hot creaser, and nail them under the 
tree, right under the girth straps. After cutting 
a piece of thin hogskin about \ in. wide, drive a 
nail in it close to the crupper loop and wrap it 
round the last from end to end ; then fasten it on 
the other side with a nail. The flaps, close to 
their ends, are fastened to the tree by a leather 
chape put through and secured with fine tacks. 

Some harness makers put silver dees under the 
saddle, nailing them with a chape just to show 
between the saddle tree and panel. 



CHAPTER II. 

PANEL FOR gentleman's SADDLE. 

The saddle as made in the previous chapter is 
now complete with the exception of a panel (Fig. 
5), and that is made as follows : Cut a good basil 
to the shape of the saddle underneath, and make 
it in two parts, joined along the middle. Drive 
a nail exactly in its centre at the front and back, 
and place the side of the saddle with the basil 
under it on the work bench in front. Now with 
the seat awl mark the basil all round the edges 
of the saddle, making it flush with the front and 
reaching at the back to the crupper loop, so as to 
cover the nails in the seat ; it must also be flush 
with the side of the skirt as far as the flap ; cut 
it to the same shape, but about 2^ in. shorter in 
the bottom only. 

Cut a straight line from centre to centre at the 
front and back, and cut along the marks all round. 
About 2 in. from the centre, make a straight cut 
downwards for 1^ in. exactly, and from the end of 
this draw another straight line to the back, end- 
ing about 1 in. from the extreme point. Cut along 
that line and make one or two stitches at both 
ends to join the two sides of the panel. There 
will then be a hollow in the centre of the panel 
with each end attached. 

Next line the panel along the top and front 
with basil or linen and allow it to dry, after which 
tack it on again, and see that it has not stretched 
in damping with the paste. If it has done so, mark 
the place, cut it off, and put a tack in the point, 
marking round the point for about 2 in. upwards 



22 Saddlery. 

and around the bottom. Then cut two pieces of hog- 
skin of the same shape as the point but slightly 
larger. Stitch them on where the points on the 
panel were marked, but sufficiently outside the 
mark to allow the points to enter easily, because 
they are pockets into which the points are placed 
when the panel is completed. 

The hogskin facing can now be cut for the 
panel ; it runs along the front on both sides and 
in the turning under the flaps, also round the back ^ 
over the flap part of the panel on each side about 
1 in. below the turning. Narrow it down gradually 
to nothing in the points at both front and back, 
and exactly opposite the gullet and opposite the 
crupper loop narrow it to about one-half its width. 
Back-stitch it to the panel with white linen thread 
and a pointed needle, taking care to make the 
facing endsi level with each other at the points 
both at the back and front. Damp the edges and 
rub them down level with the rubber after they 
have been stitched. 

Next lay the white serge for the lining flat on 
the bench, and place the panel on it with the 
wrong side out ; then with a single thread of hemp 
coarsely tack the panel to the serge all round^ 
inside the facing. 

Cut the lining about 2^ in. larger than the back 
of the panel, and narrow it to about 1 in. at the 
extremity of the bottom. At the back also it 
must be cut about 2 in. larger, and gradually 
narrowed from the corners on each side of the flap 
to the same width as the other side at the bottom, 
namely, about 1 in. A little must be cut out of 
the front of the lining opposite the gullet, remov- 
ing about half the width of what is over the back 
and likewise opposite the crupper loop. 

After turning a little in all round the lining 
with a needle and thread, run a coarse tack in it 
close to the edge, and then whip it to the facing 



Panel for Gentleman'' s Saddle. 23 

and that part of the panel without a facing. Turn 
it inside out and make the lining equal on both 
sides ; then put a little cord or a rounded piece 
of basil (damped and rounded) in the gullet just 
to meet the stuffing in both sides. 

The panel being laid flat on the bench length- 
wise, draw the lining smooth between the edges 
of the opening at the top and put a tack in the 
board at the back, with one on each side of the 
opening in front. Through the back and lining 
along the edge of the opening, from end to end 
on both sides, raise stitches about 1 in. apart at 



Jbig. 5. — Saddle Panel. 

the back, and a good 3 in. in front ; the panel is 
now in two equal compartments with a hollow 
between them. Having cut a cross in the centre 
of its back near the lines, put one side of the 
panel on the bench, allowing the other to hang 
down by the side, after which, through the cross 
holes, each side should be stuffed pretty full with 
ready machined flock. Prepare the special quilt- 
ing thread or a long three-cord beeswax thread 
to quilt the facing. 

Holding the seat awl in the right hand, work 
down the flock to the facing, thus making a hard 
roll all round the panel to give it a permanent 



24 Saddlery. 

form. With each stitch work the flock down, thus 
keeping it in its place with the thumb and fore- 
fingers of the left hand. Eun the stitches from 
below close to the joining of the facing and back 
inside it in the panel ; make very small stitches 
in the lining, and pull them very tight. The roll 
should be rather thick all round the back and 
along the front, but gradually smaller towards 
the front bottom. Turn the back upwards around 
the part under the flap where there is no facing, 
bringing the wool to the edge and tacking it there ; 
but do not make the roll so hard as in the facing. 
Quilt along the gullet where the rounded basil 
was placed, and draw the facing firmly and 
smoothly over ; begin and end at the back centre, 
meanwhile keeping the panel lining on the work 
bench in front. 

The flock must be levelled by pushing it down 
to the facing Avith the seat awl, more being added 
to keep the panel full in all parts ; be sure that 
the flaps are quite smooth and well filled towards 
the edges. 

Five or six lines about 1^ in. apart should next 
be marked across the panel flaps, and two lines 
at the top back part of it half-way across ; again 
mark them across with as many lines at equal dis- 
tances from each other as will fill the space. Then 
quilt the flap, making a stitch at each joining of 
the lines, and on the two lines marked half across, 
having three stitches in one and two in the other 
at the back part of the panel. Add stuffing if 
necessary along the top of the back, but do not 
make it baggy. 

The flock having been levelled with the seat 
awl, the -A\^ork should be placed in position as 
follows:— After fixing in the pockets the points 
of the tree, pull the pockets until the points are 
right at the end ; then tack the panel close to the 
gullet piece around the front and put two tacks 



Panel for Gentleman^ s Saddle. 25 

through the panel between the points of the crup- 
per loop behind. 

On each of six medium-sized nails place a tuft 
of flock close to the head, then put one on each 
side of the panel near the facing, at about 8 in. 
from the crupper loop, and another on each side 
in the middle of the panel nearer the front of the 
tree ; finallj^, place one on each side in the front, 
about 2 in. from the top of the pockets, in the 
point outside the iron plate, and cut the flock 
close to the nail heads with a pair of scissors. 



26 



CHAPTER III. 

ladies' side saddles. 

Certain important points must be attended to 
when ordering a tree for a side saddle. Such a 
tree is shown by Fig. 6. Sometimes this has a 
small off-head or point and sometimes a straight 
seat, or it may rise gradually towards the cantle, 
or, again, may have a long or short leaping head. 
Thus there is a great difference in the make of 
trees, and they are of plain hogskin, or with quilted, 
bolstered, or plain safe and skirts, or with doeskin 
in the seat or in the safe and heads. Others are 
quilted all over, seat, skirts, flaps, and safe. 

The head or point is the part projecting on the 
side of the saddle in front, over which the rider's 
knee is placed ; the other projection, head or 
horn, is now rarely of a size to which a name can 
be given. 

The safe is the part in front which reaches 
beyond the saddle, covering the horse's shoulder 
to keep the rider's clothes from the horse ; it either 
forms part of the flap or is joined to it straight 
down from the point. 

To make a saddle with a small off-head and 
quilted or bolstered safe only, obtain a tree and 
strain the web thoroughly as for a gentleman's 
saddle. Adjust it in the same manner with the 
cross pieces and linen in a similar position to form 
a ground for the seat. Cover it also in a like 
fashion with white serge for stuffing, but make 
the sausage pad at the side where the rider sits 
twice as thick, or nearly so, as it is on the offside ; 
if the seat runs down steep towards the riding 



Ladies^ Side Saddles. 27 

side there would be a danger of the rider falling 
from the saddle. Nevertheless, gradually increase 
the rounding, slanting it downwards as it ap- 
proaches the front, for sharp corners here would 
hurt the rider. 

The point must be prepared and stuffed as 
follows before the worker attempts to place the 
cover on the seat : Cut two pieces of stiff leather 
to the same shape as the head and to reach to the 
bottom on the inside, and of sufficient size outside 
the head all round to permit it to be stitched round 
outside the horn. Place one piece on each side 
and stitch each firmly to the horn ; then put two 




Fig-. 6.— Tree for Side Saddle. 

or three tacks in the outer one at the bottom, and 
thin the edges, giving them a good shape. 

Shape a piece of white serge to the head, round 
at the top and about 2\ in. wider along the sides 
and as much longer at the top ; then run a tack 
all round with white linen thread, turning in the 
edges slightly under the stitches and puckering 
round the top so that it will bulge when stuffed 
in the same way. Put the serge in the inside of 
the head and stitch it all round to the stitches 
in the two leathers on the outside, catching the 
edge of the serge and then running the needle 
through the stitch in the leather so that the serge 
will cover the edge of the horn. Be sure that it 
bulges equallj^ in every part at the top and sides. 



28 Saddlery. 

Cut some clean carded flock small enough, and 
with it stuff from the bottom, pushing it to the 
top with the seat awl until the stuffing is firm and 
plump everywhere and smooth round the edges 
and top. Then from the back make a few stitches 
along the sides, backwards and forwards, to keep 
the flock in its place ; do not pull the stitches 
very tight, for this would cause unevenness of sur- 
face. If the centre does not seem quite full 
enough when the edges are quilted, a little more 
flock may be put in place, and the surface after- 
wards made perfectly level all over with the seat 
awl. 

The point being covered and stuffed, place a 
piece of serge on the outer side of the small head 
and nail it in the bottom and turn it in along the 
edge of the head ; then fasten it down level. It 
need not be placed nearer the back of the saddle 
than where the seat cover is to- be nailed. Adjust 
the serge, nailing it at the front, sides, and back, 
as for a gentleman's saddle ; but cut it round the 
stuffed horn and turn the edges down underneath, 
nailing the ends in the front. Also, along the 
edge of the little horn, turn in the edges of the 
seat cover and whip this to the turned-in edge of 
the piece pasted underneath, along the extreme 
edge of the point. Cut the hole or slit in the 
centre of the seat and stuff in the same style as 
a gentleman's saddle, levelling down to all parts 
round the sides and round the top of the cantle. 

To keep the flock in its place, quilt along the 
ridge to the root of the cantle from the point oi 
horn on the near side, giving the seat the aspect 
of a flat, full square edge from the root of the 
cantle to the point ; the other side is worked in 
a similar way. 

In pushing the flock with the awl under the 
quilting, too much may have been pulled from the 
centre of the seat ; if so, fill and level it again 



Ladies' Side Saddles. 29 

with the seat awl, taking care that the front point, 
and up to the tip of the small point on the opposite 
side, are well filled and smooth. 

Now take a piece of hogskin large enough to 
cover the long point and nail it at the back, pulling 
it tight and tacking it close all round the top so 
as to obliterate every pleat ; leave it on the point 
to dry. The hogskin seat having been damped, 
put it on the saddle and place a small piece of 
hogskin outside the small point to cover the serge 
put there for stitching the serge seat cover ; both 
the hogskin and serge must run along the edge 
of the small horn. 

The hogskin seat must be cut all round the 
long point, a hole being made of a size to suit 
the space required by the root of the points ; draw 
the ends of the leather across each other in front 
at the outside, and tack them low down. When 
the seat and point cover have dried thus, cut a 
piece of firm leather to the same shape as the 
hollow at the back of the long point facing the 
operator, fitting it tightly between the stuffing at 
the top and along the sides. Then cut a piece of 
hogskin to cover this piece, and shave the edges 
of both ; the hogskin should be about \ in. larger 
than the stiff piece all round. 

After pasting the leathers together and allow- 
ing them to dry, adjust the skirts in the same 
way as with the gentleman's saddle, and cut along 
the line of mark likewise ; then dot the position 
of various parts of the skirts and seat. Place 
the thin hogskin welt along the upper edge of the 
seat and stitch the skirt and welt together, but no 
farther than the root of the big point ; run on the 
other side opposite under the short point. 

From the point to which the seat is stitched, 
a wider welt doubled like the narrow one must 
be stitched to the skirt, running from this part 
to the end ; a narrow welt must also be made 



3© Saddlery, 

around the seat at the edge of the hole cut for the 
point, and a broad welt stitched to that as in the 
skirt. Likewise, at the other side, under the short 
point, make a narrow welt and a broad one as in 
the end of the skirt, and again make a narrow 
welt along the edge of the hogskin piece placed 
under the short point, and stitch the seat on it 
from the place where the seat and skirt of the 
saddle part. 

The piece of hogskin, when put in place, will 
go under the edge of the skirt to be nailed under- 
neath. Be careful that the ends of the leather 
which come round the long point meet and are 
tacked neatly under the skirt on the near side 
below the big point. Now remove the cover round 
the long point and make a small welt around the 
small back piece and cover it with hogskin. Stitch 
the cover to it all round and take care that it does 
not stretch or pleat round the. top. 

Having turned the cover inside out, damp it 
and then slip it down over the point, cutting a few 
nicks in the bottom so that it may go low down 
with the bottom flat on the seat. As there is a 
hollow between the two sides where the side pad- 
ding bulges out at the back of the point, and as 
the back piece does not run so close to the back 
point as is required, put some paste between the 
back piece and the point and press the former 
hard down into the hollow, as though pasting it 
to the point, until the sides stand out prominently 
all round. 

To keep it thus and make it stick to the point 
by the paste, put over it two or three thicknesses 
of soft leather, brown in colour, of the same shape 
and size as the piece ; then roll a soft rag round 
the point and the leather so that it will press the 
back piece close to the point ; thus the paste, 
when dry, will keep it in place. Nail the back 
piece to the tree at the bottom with two or three 



Ladies^ Side Saddles. 



31 



cut tacks out of sight, and cut the pleats in the 
seat behind the cantle and stitch them. 

The points running to the pockets on the panel 
must be covered in the same way as those of the 
gentleman's saddle with thin hogskin or basil. 
After damping the seat, put it in place, nailing 
it in front and then at the back, and tightening 
it down well around the sides. Nail the piece of 
hogskin behind the short point, and pull the seam 
with the welt exactly along the edge in all parts. 
The points of the skirt must be drawn tightly 
towards the front and a tack put in the end, plac- 




Fig. 7. — Lady's Near-side Flap and Safe. 



ing the edge of the skirts at both sides under the 
points ; cover the nails and ends of leathers fas- 
tened there, and cut the waste all round the back 
and sides close to the nails. 

Some makers put a pocket on the centre of the 
off skirt to carry the rider's gloves or handker- 
chief ; this pocket must be made before the under 
pieces are adjusted and before placing the skirt 
on the seat. The shape may be square, about 
4^ in. long and 3^ in. deep. Stitch the leather 
along the bottom on the flesh side so that when 
the material is turned upwards the stitches will 
be hidden, and make a small gusset on each side, 
1 in. wide at the top and tapering down to nothing 
at the bottom. Turn in the gusset at the centre, 



32 Saddlery, 

and stitch one side of it to the pocket and the 
other to the skirt. Cut a loop, and put both ends 
of it in the front, cutting holes for them ; then 
stitch them across. 

An overlap, of the same length as the pocket 
and like a pocket-book overlap, must be cut and 
stitched to the pocket in the same manner as the 
bottom on the flesh side, and turned down towards 
the front to cover the stitches. Hogskin is the 
material employed, and the overlap may be lined 
and stitched all round or neatly creased with a 
hot iron. 

The near-side flap (Fig. 7) and safe are gener- 
ally in two pieces, joined in the centre in a straight 
line with the point side in front. The back part 
is like a saddle flap, but is a little fuller in the 
round at the bottom ; the back part reaches no 
farther than level with the end of the saddle-bar 
front side, but the fore part or safe in front runs 
a little beyond the centre at the top. The safe 
part and back part or flap are cut singly, and then 
joined together at the straight line by a closing 
stitch with strong black wax thread, crossing this 
from side to side every six or seven stitches. 

For a bolstered safe, cut a piece of hogskin 
the same size as the safe part, allowing 1 in. all 
round for the bolstering, and covering in the 
centre the joint of the safe and flap part. Next 
quilt the hogskin and mark it all over with a 
regular pattern by a small single crease ; press 
it hard with a pattern of flowers, leaves, or any 
other fancy design. A piece of calico large enough 
to line it should now be cut and stitched along 
all the marks with white or yellow silk or linen 
thread, either single or double. The outer lines 
must be stitched first and puckers avoided, leather 
and calico being perfectly flat ; and a hole should 
be pricked every space in the pattern. 

Now stuff all the spaces with very fine flock 



Ladies' Side Saddles. 33 

cut small with scissors. A small edge tool can 
be employed for stuffing, the seat awl distributing 
the flock over the spaces ; stuff just sufficient to 
show the pattern well on the outside and to give 
a pleasant feeling of softness to the touch. Then 
place the cover on the safe part, edge to edge, 
and cut it level with the safe, crease round the 
edge of the cover, and prick it very fine. 

The underneath of the opposite straight edge 
must also be pricked, but not the top as for the 
outer side ; the pricking must be much coarser 
than the top side. Stitch it, wrong side out, out- 
side the joint of the flaps and safe ; then turn 
it over towards the front to cover the stitches and 
bring the cover edge to edge with the safe. Next 
stitch it round the edge, double-handed, and finish 
neatly. 

When the flap and safe are covered with hog- 
skin and the safe is treated as described, the 
hogskin has only to be pasted on the flap part and 
stitched round. If, however, a covered safe is 
made without bolstering, paste a piece of serge 
over the safe ; then place the hogskin as above 
described without pasting. In some cases the safe 
is not covered at all, the flap and safe being made 
in one piece and stamped, with the edges rounded 
and polished only ; there is then no creasing on 
the saddle. Whenever flaps or skirts are lined 
with serge, do not let the serge come up to the 
edge or under the stitches ; it should come only 
just to them. 

The flap on the off side is, of course, a small 
one, exactly as for a gentleman's saddle, but fuller 
in the rounds below. If covered, make it like the 
other flaps, with or without serge. When putting 
the off-side flap in place, make a gullet piece from 
the end of the front of the flap running to a little 
over the centre in the top, so as to be covered by 
the point of the safe. Put the off-side flap in its 
c 



34 Saddlery. 

place, nailing it underneath from the point back- 
wards and above the point in front. 

When placing the safe and flap on the near 
side, nail them likewise underneath ; then on this 
and on the off side, where the web hangs down 
for the straps, cut a punch hole in the front of the 
safe close by the tree and near the end of the flap, 
and turn that part of the flap to the point under- 
neath the tree, nailing it along the gullet. 

When a leaping head is employed, a hole must 
be cut through the safe to screw the head in place. 




Fig-. 8. — Lady's Saddle with Quilted Skirt and Leaping 
Head. 



Cover and stuff it exactly like the other long point, 
but use a piece of leather for the bottom. A hole 
must be made in it through which the screw peg 
passes, and it must be cut to the same size and 
shape as the point at tlie bottom. Finally stitch 
the point cover and this leather together all round. 
The straps for the girths are adjusted on the web. 
The thin brown leather girth, a part which 
does not belong to a gentleman's saddle, can now 
be put on, its length being 3| ft. and width 2 in. 
An inch buckle with a roller is needed at one end, 
and the chape sdiould be cut slanting from both 
sides to its width. Make a loop for it, and another 



Ladies' Side Saddles. 35 

about 6 in. lower on the girth for the overlap of 
the strap, if there is any. 

Cut another piece 1 ft. long and 2 in. wide, 
and a strap 1 ft. 6 in. by 1 in. stitched to one 
end. Having stitched them neatly, edge and rub 
the borders and make a narrow hot crease very 
near the edge ; the stitching may be made inside. 
On the girth have two rows of cross-stitching on 
the near side, and two rows on the off side ; the 
girth will buckle the reverse to the usual way, 
and can be adjusted whilst the rider is in the 
saddle. 

Two cross straps for fastening the girth strap 
are employed by some makers, one being fastened 
through a hole in the flap at the top of the panel 
point, and the other under the panel behind, 
outside the flap ; these straps meet and are 
stitched to a ring on the centre of the flap, 
the strap being again fastened to the ring and 
hanging down. The tough nails are placed simi- 
larly to those in a gentleman's saddle, namely, 
one at each point of the skirts in front, one through 
the flaps on each side at the point, and one on 
each side at the narrow end of the skirts behind. 

The panel is made as described in Chapter II., 
but slightly wider, to go under the safe in front, 
and the near side is filled rather more. Fig. 8 
shows the finished lady's saddle with leaping head 
and quilted skirt. 



36 



CHAPTER IV. 

children's saddles oe pilohes. 

A pilch is the form of saddle used by a boy or 
girl, and is made as described in this chapter. 

First the top is cut somewhat like a saddle 
panel, but smaller, and in a straight line along 
the back. At the joint a welt is placed, and 
stitched double-handed on the under side. This 
top can be made of plain, stiff single leather, or 
covered plain with basil or hogskin, or covered 
and quilted like a lady's saddle safe. 

If it is covered, the cover must be tacked 
coarsely along the edge, and then bound with 
leather. A roll, if placed behind, should reach 
round the back and come to a fine point at each 
end. Cut some linen to the required shape and 
size, and double and stitch 'the edges together ; 
then, after stuffing the roll hard with flock, quilt 
it firmly, and put a stitch here and there along the 
bottom through the linen and the saddle top. 

Having drawn it tight all round the back of 
the seat, bringing the points down level to each 
other at each corner of the flap part of the top, 
cut a piece of hogskin or basil large enough to 
cover the roll. Raise a. stitch along the bottom on 
both sides of the roll in the cover, and run the 
stitches up and down through the saddle top or 
cover, thus drawling the latter down tightly over 
the roll. 

Next quilt the roll, making stitches from side 
to side, placing a little tuft of flock under each 
stitch, and drawing them tight ; finally fasten the 
thread securely in the end. 



Children's Saddles or Pilches. 37 

If the saddle is a reversible one (for boy or 
girl), it must have heads, to be put on or taken 
off as required. Sometimes the heads are joined 
together at the top, with two long points running 
down, one on each side, at the shoulder. If such 
a head is employed, two long loops must be put 
on the side of the saddle for the points to enter 
and to keep the head in place ; make a hole at 
each end of the points, and rivet a strap at the 
near side and a girth on the other side to go under 
the belly and fasten the head when in use. 

Another method is to have the heads loose 
and separate, in which case a piece of iron of 
suitable shape, with two tapped holes in it, is 
needed ; it must be in a proper position for screw- 
ing in the heads and there must be a screw on 
each head to enter the holes from above. The 
iron must be fixed on the panel by a piece of 
leather placed over it on the panel, and then 
stitched all round. Cut a hole in the leather of 
the saddle top for screwing in the points. 

For stuffing the heads, cover with leather as in 
a lady's saddle ; two or three thicknesses of felt, 
however, can be employed instead of stuffing. 
With a common pilch it is not necessary to go to 
so much trouble ; a herring-bone stitch will do tO' 
join the cover together. When the heads are 
screwed in, cover their bottom with leather, stitch- 
ing it to the cover all round. When the heads gO' 
to the loops at the side, cover the points going, 
down to the loop with thin leather, and herring- 
bone stitch it imderneath. 

To fasten the straps for the girths a piece of 
webbing will be needed about 1 ft. 3 in. long; to 
its ends 2-in. straps, 10 in. long, must be stitched,, 
the end of the web being turned in under the 
stitch. Then take a piece of web about 1 ft. long,, 
and whip it to the edge of the other piece at 
equal distances from both ends, and adjust twO' 



38 Saddlery, 

chapes and a 1-in. buckle with the tongue taken 
off for fastening the stirrup straps. Stitch this 
to the lower part of the top cover right in the 
centre, and before fixing the basil or hogskin cover 
bring the buckles for the stirrup straps forward, 
and cut a hole for them to come through on the 
outside without making the web visible. 

When the top cover is in position, stitch round 
the hole, which should be close to the loops, where 
the points holding the head run down in front, 
or where they would be with loose heads ; see that 
the holes are at the same distance on each side 
from the centre. Stitch the web firmly through 
the top from end to end ; add the cover and bind 
it, and then put on the roll behind. If considered 
necessary, a piece of web may be added at the 
middle, and joined to the other web, together with 
a chape and a 1-in. tongueless buckle, to come 
out behind at the centre for fastening the crupper. 

A safe will be needed when th© pilch is for 
a girl. Cut it to fit the front of the saddle neatly, 
and cover or bolster it, or leave it plain. With 
loose horns it can be shaped in cutting so that 
it will fasten under the point, the screw of the 
head being put through a hole in it to the iron 
below, and fastened at the bottom with a buckle 
and strap. 

If the head is removable with points, it must 
be fastened with straps and buckles at both ends, 
and, if necessary, a strap placed in the middle. 

The panel is made exactly like a saddle panel, 
but is fastened by putting stitches through the 
top here and there along the front and round the 
back near the edge. A small tuft of flock should 
be placed under the stitch on the panel, and every 
stitch should be knotted over the flock as the 
work proceeds. Cut the thread, and do not fasten 
the panel quite at the bottom of the flaps, but 
about 5 in. from it. 



Children's Saddles or Pilches. 39 

Make a pair of 1-in. stirrup straps, 1 ft. 8 in. 
long, and obtain a pair of boy's irons, which can 
be bought tinned for sixpence a pair ; then a 
ready-made slipper for a girl, with a strap for it 
of the same length as the others, and a pair of 
girths, 1 ft. 6 in. and 1 ft. 8 in. long, will complete 
the pilch. 

It has been shown that pilches are boys' and 
girls' saddles made without trees, but, according to 
some authorities, they do not properly come under 
the denomination of saddles. They are, at all 
events, an, improvement on the old horse cover 
which in the beginning did duty for the saddle. 
Pilches are, or were, used also by rough riders and 
circus riders, probably because of the fact that 
pilches accommodate themselves to almost any 
horse, though they lose their shape under a heavy 
weight. 



4C 



CHAPTER V. 

SADDLE CRUPPERS, BREASTPLATES, AND OTHER 
ACCESSORIES. 

This chapter will describe the making of saddle 
cruppers, breastplates, martingales, saddle girths, 
stirrup leathers, and saddle cloths. 

Full-sized saddle cruppers (Fig. 9), which are 
used to prevent the saddle from advancing too 
much, are made about 1 iij. wide, and sometimes, 
a little more, the body being about 1 ft. 6 in. long, 
with a slit of about 5 in. in one end, the other 
being turned in for a |-in. buckle ; shave the points 
of the slits and the end of the chape. 

Having cut a billet of the same width as the 
buckle, and 2 ft. 4 in. long, trim one end for the 
buckle and shave the other. Edge them and polish 
the edges, creasing them with a hot checker. Ad- 
just the buckle and stitch the billet, making the 
first stitch by the buckle over the edge and the 
chape and billet together, and the next stitch 
through the loop. Now run four or five stitches 
towards the point on each side, and return to the 
buckle on the other side, making the last stitch 
over the side the same as the opposite side. 

Put a loop on the flat lower down the body 
of the crupper, say about 6 in. from the buckle, 
stitching it across in each end, and then make 
a dock much smaller in circumference than the 
gig crupper dock, the leather being cut about 
1 ft. 1 in. long. 

Take a piece of string about 1 ft. long, and 
roll wet brown paper round it until it is of the 
required thickness in the middle ; thin the ends 



Saddle Cruppers and Other Accessories. 41 

by cutting the paper before damping it. Stitch 
the leather over it as it is, without cutting a 
groove, drawing it very tightly over the paper. 
See that the leather is soft and pliable, and damp 
it before stitching. Having dried the dock, finish 
it in shape, and then stitch the dock to the slits, 
giving it about a l^-in. splice. Put about a dozen 
holes in the billets, and vary their lengths ac- 
cording to the size of horse for which they are 
intended. 

Breastplates (Fig. 10) are made for hunting 



Fig-. 0. — Saddle Crupper. 

saddles to prevent them falling backwards, just 
as the crupper keeps them from advancing too 
far. To make them, the following jDarts are 
needed: — One \\-m. covered ring, two 1-in. cov- 
ered rings, two |-in. covered buckles, and one 
1-in. covered buckle. 

Cut two side straps | in. wide, and 2 ft. in 
length when turned over the rings in each end ; 
round the top, place on the groove board, and stuff 
with strands of soft cord. Stitch them along both 



42 



Saddlery. 



sides, very finely, with silk cotton or linen thread, 
placing a 1-in. ring at one end of each, and the 
two ends in a l^-in. ring ; polish the edges well 
after stitching. Then cut a if-in. strap to be 10 in. 
long when bent over the rings at each end ; shave 
the ends and prick the sides finely like the shoulder 
piece. 

Another piece must now be cut 9^ in. long 
when bent for the rings, | in. wide at both ends, 




Fig-. 10.— Saddle Breastplate. 



but running gradually to a central width of 1| in. 
Put the chapes in the 1-in. rings, and stitch both 
pieces together. Two |-in. straps, 2 ft. long, must 
be made, one end being prepared for the buckle, 
the other narrowed ; then edge, rub, and crease 
them with a hot checker. Place one in each of 
the 1-in. rings to within 3 in. of the buckle. 
Double the 3-in. length with the buckle on the 
top, and make two loops between the two leathers. 
Stitch from the ring along both sides to the buckle, 



Saddle Cruppers and Other Accessories. 43 

the loops, of course, being fastened at the same 
time, and, having finished the edges of the stitched 
part, make seven or eight holes, in the points of 
the strap. 

The long side straps must run down from the 
shoulder to the chest, and the short cross strap 
should pass over the neck at the top. The two 
small straps have buckles to fasten to the staples 
that are placed in front of the saddle. A strap 
is needed to go from the big ring to the girth 




Fig-. 11. — Martingale. 



under the belly between the forelegs ; cut it l\ in. 
wide and 3 ft. long. Narrow it down to 1 in. at 
1 ft. from the bend at the ring, and turn it down 
for the buckle at the 1-in. end ; edge, rub, and 
crease it, then put the buckle in the reverse way. 
Now cut eight or nine punch holes, beginning 
about 8 in. from the buckle, and buckle the strap 
backwards, making a loop for the bellyband to go 
through. Place the other end in the ring, and 
cut a safe to go under it and run above under the 



44 



Saddlery. 



ring round the top part, then passing down for 
about 3^ in, below the bend, and gradually grow- 
ing narrower towards the end almost to the width 
of the strap. 

Crease the safe, and place it in position under 
the chape and ring ; then, having stitched it down 



^!'^^ 




Fi?. 12.— Saddle Girth. 



neatlj'- on both tides with a fancy stitch in the 
centre, line the safe with a piece of chamois or 
very thin buff, stitching it in all round the safe. 
Stuff a little flock through the opening in the bot- 
tom, and then close the opening with fancy stitch- 
ing, such as an arrow point. It can be made of 



Saddle Cruppers and Other Accessories. 45 

single leather without any lining, the bends only 
being stitched. 

A combined martingale and breastplate can be 
made by cutting a strap It in. wide and 15 in. 
long ; the strap must then be slit for about 11 in. ; 
the points of the slits are bent for a chape to 
suit a Ij-in. brass, ivory, or leather-covered ring. 
A buckle and billet are put in the other end for 




Fig. 13.— Saddle Girth. 



fastening to the 1^-in. ring on the breastplate. 
The slits may be made round or flat, and the 
chapes must be narrowed a little at the rings and 
to I in. at the buckle end, a billet made of this 
width. 

Martingales (Fig. 11) are made with straps 
round the neck, either flat or round, and with or 
without a buckle ; the total length is about 4 ft. 
6 in., and the flat strap is | in. wide. 



46 



Saddlery, 



When a buckle is used, a piece of leather is 
placed about 1 ft. 3 in. from the buckle for the 
breast strap, and is stitched at both ends. A 
piece is put in to make an opening, the rest of 
the neck strap being rounded, with about 1 ft. 
left flat for a |-in. buckle. If no buckle is em- 
ployed, an opening can be made by simply over- 







Fig-. 14.— Saddle Girth. 



lapping the ends and leaving space enough be- 
tween the two splices for the breast strap. 

The breast strap is cut 1^ in. wide and 4 ft. 
long, is slit for 1 ft. 1 in., and may be flat or 
round ; in the latter case, it must be wider to 
begin with, say If in., and then slit in half. When 
flat, narrow it at the unslit^end to 1 ft. 6 in. from 
the end, and, having fixed a 1-in. buckle there in 



Saddle Cruppers and Other Accessories. 47 

the reverse way, buckle it to form a loop ; this 
buckle must be adjusted before the rings. Then 
run the buckle end through the opening in the 
neck strap, and the martingale is complete. 

Saddle girths (Figs. 12, 13, and 14) are made of 
linen, worsted, or union (that is part linen and 




Fig. 15. — Stirrup Leather. 



part wool) ; they are also made of raw hide, whip- 
cord, and plaited brown leather. It is, however, 
more common to employ the first-named material. 
Girth buckles must be obtained with safety 
bars across them, and the chapes should be cut 
pointed at the ends, swelling out at the sides to 
grow narrow to the width of the buckle at the 



48 Saddlery. 

top, where they bend. Always stitch them round, 
and put a straight line in the centre to keep down 
the point of the turn-down ; only about twelve or 
fifteen stitches are put in the centre. 

When this has been cut and prepared for the 
buckle, stain the edges and turn in both corners 
of the web to meet in the centre ; then run a 
stitch through them to keep them down, and cut 
a little off the extreme point and tack the chapes 
and buckles before stitching. The length varies 
from 3 ft. to 3 ft. 6 in. 

A Fitzwilliam girth is made of web 5 in. wide, 
the ends being bound with leather and a chape 




Fig. lo.— Saddle. Cloth. 

and buckle placed on each side— that is;, in each 
corner, two at each end of the girth. A 1-in. loop 
is then put across the girth, 5 in. from the end, 
on each side, and the loops are stitched across 
twice at each end, an opening being left in the 
middle for an ordinary girth to pass. 

A single ordinary girth must then be made, 
one end placed through each of the loops, and 
the Fitzwilliam girth is complete. It is a very safe 
girth, and keeps the saddle steady in place. If 
so desired, chape punches can be obtained which 
cut out the chapes at one stroke, or for cutting 
partly round or cornered patterns the head knife 
may be used. 

Stirrup leathers may now be described. It may 



Saddle Cruppers and Other Accessories. 49 

be said that their purpose is to connect the stirrup 
irons to gentlemen's saddles, and hold the irons in 
place. For ladies' use, only one stirrup leather is 
customary, and sometimes this is made in the same 
style as a gentleman's ; more often, however, a 
single strap is employed to connect the stirrup, 
this strap passing through a hole in the saddle 
and joining the balance girth underneath the flap. 

Stirrup leathers (Fig. 15) must be made from 
stirrup middlings, and with stirrup leather buck- 
les ; the width may be l| in. to 1^ in., but \\ in. 
is most common, whilst the length varies from 
4 ft. to 4 ft. 6 in. There is no need to cut holes 




Figf. 17.— Saddle Cloth. 

for the buckle tongues, as these do not go through 
the leather. 

Having bent the strong end for about 2 in., 
stitch it firmly to the bottom of the buckle, narrow 
a little on the buckling end, and nip a little from 
each corner. Stain the edges, and polish them 
well, and crease double and heavily with a hot 
screw crease on the flesh side, instead of the grain 
side as with other straps ; finally turn the chape at 
the buckle the reverse \ray, and make about eight 
holes in them. 

As a rule, saddle-cloths (Figs. 16 and 17) are 
made of felt in the same shape as the saddle, but 
a little larger. Each is cut in two pieces, with 
a small curve at the back, rising a little at each 

D 



50 Saddlery. 

end, and stitched together with a whip stitch. A 
piece of binding is stitched along the joint, and 
the edges are then bound with red, yellow, or 
blue cloth. The felt can also be obtained in vari- 
ous colours — blue, brown, fawn, etc. 

With regard to the use of the saddle cloth, it is 
shaped so as to go easily under the saddle, where 
it protects the horse's back and the panel of the 
saddle by absorbing the perspiration ; the effect 
of the continued perspiration on the leather of 
the saddle panel is to render it hard. 

The saddle cloth can be used also when the 
stuflFmg of the saddle is unequal ; this is a good 
remedy, and one that has been used almost uni- 
versally in the cavalry. In the army, saddle cloths 
? known as numnahs, and are made of felt. 
This is certainly the best material to use for the 
purpose, but kersey, cloth, and holland have been 
commonly employed. 

Kersey, it may be said, is a kind of coarse 
woollen cloth and usually is ribbed. Devon kerseys 
were famous as far back as the fourteenth century. 



51 



CHAPTER VI. 

RIDING BRIDLES. 

A SNAFFLE bridle is a single head and rein bridle, 
the cheeks being about | in. wide and 9 in. long. 
The cheeks must have a buckle at each end, one 
with a chape turned down, and the other on the 
flat end of the strap, without turning, and with 
the billet underneath. For riding bridles (Fig. 18) 
the buckles are made square, round, or fancy 
shape, and are of brass, tinned or plated. Leave 
space for a loop before the buckle and the point 
of the cheek, the billet being placed far enough 
behind the buckle for two loops ; a runner loop is 
needed on the cheek, and another stitched with 
the chape at the buckle, the billet being cut 9 in. 
long. They should be stitched-in single-handed, 
and back-stitched with linen thread or silk, accord- 
ing to the style of article to be made. 

All the stitching must be done from behind, so 
that the best face of the stitches will be next the 
horse when the bridle is on. Make one hole in 
each billet, leaving enough material to pass 
through the two loops and cover the stitches. 

The cheeks being finished, cut the head strap 
1^^ in. by 1 ft. 10 in., and slit it for 5 in. on each 
side. The width of this strap varies with that of 
the cheeks and throat lash. A |-in. cheek should 
be slit I in. on one side and | in. for a |-in. throat 
lash, taking care that the wide slits are both on 
the same side in each end. After punching four 
holes in the wide slit, and six closer together in 
the narrow ones, make the front | in. by 1 ft. 2^ in. 
from the end of one bend to the other, after 



52 Saddlery. 

bending. Turn it over the head strap, and mark 
a line across close to the head strap, thus having 
1 ft. 1 in. between the cross lines. Stitch the ends 
down, with a row along each side, and make the 
throat lash | in. by 1 ft. 7 in., after turning down 
for the buckles. Put two runner loops on the 
throat lash in addition to the loops at the buckles 
of each end. 

Now cut the reins, which measure 1 in. or \ in. 
by 4 ft. Prepare them for the buckles like the 
bottom of the cheeks in the flat, place a |-in. 
covered buckle at the other end, narrowing the 




chape down to the width of the buckle and the 
end of the other rein also for buckling. Put in 
the billets, with one loop before the buckle and 
two behind, and always put the strong end of the 
rein in the billet end ; the length of the billets 
is 10 in. 

Sometimes the bridle is made without any 
billets, the cheeks and the reins being stitched 
fast to the bit ; but the advantage of the other 
method in making it possible to remove the bit 
is evident. 

The Pelham bridle (Fig. 19) is made like the 
above as regards the head, but with a noseband, 



Riding Bridles. 



53 



which is made singly or lined along the front part 
and stuffed ; it is cat either straight or swelled 
in the front, the length being 2 ft. 4 in. after ad- 
justing the buckle. Any ornamental pattern in 
the stitching on the centre must be put through 
single leather, then lined, and the outer lines 
stitched. 

With a noseband the billets must be made a 
little longer, so that a space can be left between 
the two loops above the buckle unstitched for the 
noseband to run through both cheeks. 

The Pelham bridle also has two reins, one about 




1).— Pelham Bridle. 



1 in. wide, and the other | in., the length being 
the same as that of the snaffle reins. They have 
billets at the ends, and the wide rein has a buckle 
at the top also, but the narrow rein is spliced 
together in the centre without a buckle. The bit 
has a curb and long cheek, with two rings for 
buckling the reins, the narrow rein being at the 
bottom ring and the wide one in the ring by the 
mouth. 

The Weymouth bridle (Fig. 20) has two heads 
and two bits, a hackney and a bradoon. The head 
fastening to the hackney bit is made as for the 
Pelham bridle, with a noseband, but the head 



54 Saddlery. 

fastened to the bradoon is made with one cheek 
only, about 1| in. longer than the cheek of the 
other head, and from the other side is one strap 
with a billet and buckle at the bit ; it passes over 
the head, under the other headpiece, and under- 
neath through the forehead band loop below the 
other headpiece, and buckles in the cheek on the 
off side. This second head is f in. wide, and the 
long side is about 2 ft. 9 in. long. The two reins 
must be exactly like the Pelham reins. 

Bridles are made in different styles, and with 
fancy patterns ; for example, rounded cheeks and 
part length rounded reins, leather rosettes, plaited 
throat lash with tassels, plaited fringe on nose- 
band, etc. 

Ladies' bridles are made like gentlemen's, but 
lighter and more ornamental. Sometimes they 
have plaited cheeks, hand parts for reins, rounded, 
plaited, or fancy covered fronts, and fancy leather 
rosettes, whilst tassels may hang from the throat 
lash. 

Various styles of bits are specially made for a 
strong-headed or runaway horse ; one style of gag 
bit is something like a snaffle, but has two holes 
in the ring opposite each other. The rein runs 
through these holes, being rounded for about 12 in. 
at this part, and a buckle and loop are put on 
the end of the rounded part after it is through 
the holes in the ring, whilst the buckles from the 
bit act instead of a cheek when the head strap is 
buckled, so as to form both rein and cheek. The 
total length is about 10 ft. Thus, the more the 
rider pulls the rein, the tighter the bit rises in 
the mouth, the pressure bringing the bit and head- 
piece together. To obviate the necessity of always 
keeping this tight, to hold the bit in the mouth, 
another rein is made as usual, and fastened to 
the bit, so that when quiet the horse can be driven 
with this rein. 



RiDixG Bridles. 55 

A material that looks well in bridles is plaited 
cord, with billets and buckles like leather bridles. 

Exercising bridles are made like snaffles, but, 
of course, with stronger leather and a slight differ- 
ence in the bib, to which the rein is fastened at 
one end by a small bar of the same material as 
the bit, and at the other by being stitched to the 
bit ring. As the bar is too long to pass through 
the bit ring, pulling the rein at the centre during 
riding will not bring it through the ring ; but 
when the rider wishes to lead the horse, he takes 
the bar in his hand, and pulls the rein through 




Fig. 20.— Weymouth Bridle. 

the ring. Thus it will answer the purpose of a 
leading rein and a curb, giving greater power over 
a vicious horse. Exercising bridles are also made 
with winkers of light brown leather, blocked and 
stitched to the cheek quite close to the buckle, 
everything else being the same as for the snaffle 
bridle. 

Stallion bridles are made on the same principle, 
but are much heavier and more ornamental. The 
cheek is of a wavy, swelled pattern, 9 in. long, 
and is ornamented as follows : — Mark a small dia- 
mond in the centre of each swell, then cut it out 
and keep the piece by. Next, out of thin, soft, 
coloured leather or American cloth, out a piece 



56 Saddlery. 

twice or three times the size of the diamond re- 
moved, and place its centre over the hole from 
the under side ; press it down into the hole, and 
put the diamond first made over it, exactly 
opposite the place from which it was taken. Beat 
it down into the hollow, with the coloured leather 
above, and there will then be a coloured diamond 
on the surface of the cheek ; both cheeks can be 
made alike. Now place a piece of thin leather 
under the cheek, and stitch round the diamond 
pattern and along the edges of the cheek ; then 
rub, and give the edges a neat finish. 

For a stallion bridle, the front should be cut 
the same length as an ordinary bridle, or a little 
longer, and should be covered with fancy leather 
and ornamented with a pair of rosettes and stream- 
ers, which can be either made or purchased. The 
noseband also may be ornamented in the same 
way as the cheek, the front being scalloped and 
each s^vell ornamented. 

Let the throat lash be cut f in. wide, and have 
a buckle for the billets and top of the cheeks ; 
for this, the headpiece must be wide enough to 
cut a 1-in. and |-in. strap, the latter for the throat 
lash and the former for the cheek. Consequently, 
the width of the headpiece must be 1| in., but as 
this size might cause the animal pain at the base 
of the ear, cut out a slanting piece on the front 
and back from the end of the slitsi opposite the 
ears. 

There must also be a chape and buckle in the 
centre of the headpiece, and a drop with an 
ornament hanging down on the forehead. Line 
the drop, and make a loop for it under the fore- 
head band. 

As a rule, there is a riding rein like that for 
a snaffle, which can be fastened to the roller if 
not used for riding. Or, again, the rein can be 
made with a short piece on both sides, and a 



Riding Bridles. 57 

buckle and loop with runner, 1 ft. 3 in. long alto- 
gether, and with a centre piece to fasten in each 
buckle on the short pieees. There should be a 
dozen holesi on each side of the centre part, so 
that it can be shortened on each side when fas- 
tened to the roller. 

A leading rein must be made, with a safety bar 
and a check chain in one end and a buckle and 
long billet in the other ; the leather must be \\ in. 
wide and 7 in. long. The bridle buckles should 
be either fancy whole buckles or Scotch brass. 

A breastplate may also be made for a stallion ; 
a wavy pattern is selected, so that there will be 
two or three swells in the sidepieces, which are 
ornamented with patent coloured leather like the 
cheeks. Small straps also are placed at the top 
to fasten to the roller, but must be about 6 in. 
longer. 

In place of a ring on the chest, cut the points 
of the two sidepieces slanting on the inside, so 
that they will meet together in a V-shape on the 
chest. The strap which runs between the legs 
to the girth can then be stitched on the joint, 
a fancy pattern being cut on the end, with a 
metal ornament in its centre to match the buckles. 
With worsted webbing make the roller long enough 
to fit the horse, the width being 6 in., and there 
must also be a 1-in. dee behind to the buckle 
crupper. 

The chape which fastens the crupper dee must 
run on towards the front, with a 1-in. roller buckle 
in the centre and a loop ; the other part will form 
a billet to hold the rein by the aid of the central 
buckle. There must also be two dees, one at each 
side, fastened with a chape to secure the breast- 
plate straps. It is also advisable to place another 
dee on the near side under the pad for buckling 
the billet of the leading rein ; and two straps, 
about 2 ft. long, should be fastened, one on each 



58 Saddlery. 

side. Thus, when the attendant carries a coat 
or feeding bag, he can strap it on the horse's 
back. 

Under the strap place a small extra one about 
6 in. long, with holes in it; this rolls up inside 
the big strap, being buckled over it at the end. 
The crupper must be made with a body 2 ft. long. 
Having slit 6 in., and made a dock, put chapes 
and buckles on each end, and cut holes in the 
slits to fasten the dock to them by the buckles. 

The billet is made 1 in. wide, forming one piece 
with the lay on the body of the crupper ; thus, 
it must be longer than an ordinary billet, say 
about 4 ft. Place the buckle at a distance of 4 in. 
from the point of the body, with one loop in front 
and three loops behind ; let it be stitched from 
underneath like a gig crupper, but without leav- 
ing an opening. Finally, make a runner loop on 
the billet. 



59 



CHAPTER VII. 

BREAKING-DOWN TACKLE. 

Breaking-down tackle is made in the same style 
as the stallion outfit described in the previous 
chapter, but it has side reins to fasten the horse's 
head on each side of the roller ; this part may be 
dispensed with for a stallion, but is indispensable 
for horse-breaking, as the horse's head has to be 
kept steady and under firm control. The nose- 
band must also be made stronger, with a dee 
fastened in the centre at the front for hooking 
the leading rein, the dimensions of the last being 
9 ft. by 1| in. 

Just as the chief feature in a stallion outfit is 
ornament and show, strength is the characteristic 
of breaking tackle. Girth and crupper are made 
in the same way, but proper breaking tackle 
(Fig. 21) has a cavison iron and dumb jockey. 

The cavison iron (Fig. 22) can be purchased 
ready-made ; it acts as a noseband, being strong 
to hold the horse's head steady. In the centre 
is a ring, which turns like a swivel, and another 
ring is placed on each side ; there is also an open- 
ing at the sides of the iron to fasten the cheeks, 
and one at each end for the straps running below 
the jaw. 

Begin by covering the cavison iron with thin 
brown leather, and herringbone-stitch it under- 
neath out of sight ; then niake holes in the leather 
opposite the openings in the iron. Adjust two 
cheeks 7 in. by 1 in., then a runner and buckle 
with a loop at the top. 

In the centre of the cavison iron a 1-in. strap, 



6o Saddlery. 

20 in. long, when passed round, ascends the face 
and buckles in the centre of the headpiece. It 
must be turned in sufficiently at one end to go 
round the iron, and leave enough for stitching it 
together at the upper side. 

When placing it round the cavison iron, slit it 
in half far enough to go over the ring in the 
centre ; then put it round, with half the slit on 
each side of the ring, and stitch it above the 
iron, with a hoop under the forehead to allow it 
to pass. 

In the next place, adjust a strap 9 in. long in 
the off side opening at the end of the cavison, and 
another 5 in. long, with a buckle, loop, and runner, 
on the near side. Then make a pad as for a 
cart winker cheek, but longer; this pad must run 
all along the inside of the cavison iron, and reach 
about 1 in. beyond at each end, being slightly 
wider when stuffed and flattened. Do not make 
it clumsy and thick with stuffing. 

Four |-in. straps will be needed, long enough 
to pass round the cavison iron, with a few holes 
punched in them ; stitch one at each end across 
the pad, and one on each side of the central ring 
which fastens the pad. 

The head straps, made of good leather, are 
like those for stallions, with a chape and buckle 
in the centre to fasten the strap from the cavison 
iron to the face. Make the strap 2 ft. 4 in. long, 
so that it will fit a horse of any size, and slit it 
8 in. or 9 in. on each side, so that, when cut, it 
is If in. wide ; it can be narrowed in the centre 
between the slits. 

The forehand is made like that for a stallion. 
Having made the throat lash 1 ft. 8 in. long, when 
turned in, and | in. wide, put a buckle, a loop, 
and a runner at each end. If required for extra 
safety, a f-in. strap may be placed on each side 
of the cheek, 6 in. long, and stitched in with 



Breaking-down Tackle. 6i 

the chape at the top. Slant each strap slightly 
downwards, and make an extra throat lash, f in. 
by 1 ft. 4 in., to buckle to the straps. With two 
throat lashes the bridle will be firm and safe on 
the horse's head. No bit is employed with the 
cavison iron, but if straps are added to the cavison 
iron the bit can be attached to them. 

A Corbett martingale, with cavison iron to hold 
the horse's head down, can be employed ; fasten 
it to a strap to pass under the belly, and fasten 




Fig-. 21.— Breaking'-down Tackle. 

round the girth, or to a dee with a shorter strap, 
the dee being placed at the joining of the two sides 
of the breastplate on the chest. The fork on the 
end fastened by the horse's head consists of two 
short chains, which can be secured by two spring 
hooks attached to them in the side rings, of the 
cavison iron, one on each side. 

The style of rein dependsi on the make of the 
dumb jockey, which must be bought ready-made. 
As a rule, however, the reins must be strong, and 
at least 1 in. wide. 

For preparing a double-horned jockey, rings 



62 Saddlery. 

will be needed at one end of each rein to pass 
over the horns, and a ring a,bout 1 ft. 6 in. lower 
down is stitched to both parts. On the end of the 
fore part of the rein there must be a billet and 
buckle to fasten to the side rings of the cavison 
iron, and a buckle on the other end with two 
runner loops, this end being fastened to the ring 
in the other part of the rein,, and then put through 
runners and buckled. Thus, it can be shortened to 
suit the size of horse, and is fastened exactly 
like a bearing rein, but downwards instead of 
upwards. 

Two other similar straps must be made, with a 
ring in each to put on the horns of the jockey, 




Fig-. 22. — Cavisou Iron. 

both the straps being joined in one ring at the 
other end ; these fasten the crupper, which is 
2 ft. 6 in. in length in the body, and is slit 8 in. 
along one end. Beginning at a distance of 2 in. 
from the slit, narrow it down to 1 in., and then 
put a buckle with two runners that end after the 
fashion of a bearing rein, to secure it to the ring 
in which the two straps are joined. 

Make a thick, soft linseed dock, and stitch one 
end of it to the off side slit, and lengthen the 
other slit slightly by adding a 3-in. piece, in which 
a few holes are punched. Place a buckle and two 
loops on the near side of the dock, and, having 
bought the dumb jockey, make a panel for it, and 
also adjust a girth. 

The panel must be made on the same principle 



Breaking-down Tackle. 63 

as the cavison pad, the centre being stitched some- 
what better, and the length extending beyond the 
point, while the width is a little greater than the 
jockey seat. Quilt it in a straight line on both 
sides, placing a tuft of flock under the stitch on 
the panel face. 

If the jockey is not prepared for fastening it, 
make some straps like those for the cavison iron 
to go round the jockey. Adjust two straps, 1^ in. 
by 1 ft. 8 in., one on each side of the jockey, for 
buckling the girth, this being 2 ft. by 2 in. Then 
fix a chape and two loops with a l^-in. roller 
buckle in each end on the fiat of the girth, without 
turning the girth itself down for chapes. 

Let the breastplate be made like that for a 
stallion, but, instead of joining the sidepieces on 
the chest, a ring may be adjusted, as previously 
explained, for fastening the Corbett martingale, 
instead of using a dee as when the sidepieces are 
joined. 



64 



CHAPTER YIII. 

HEAD COLLARS. 

Head collars, also called headstalls and stable 
collars, are made in various ways, and one of the 
most useful styles will be described in this chapter. 

For a Newmarket head collar (Fig. 23) three 
head collar stop squares, a l^-in. tinned roller 
buckle, and a |-in. buckle will be required. Make 
two short straps 1 ft. by I5 in., and turn chem 
in to 5 in. long, thus having 1 in. or a little 
more for overlap. Having shaved the ends, prick 
them eight to the inch, and put one square in 
the centre between them, and one in each end, 
with the stops on the same side. 

Cut a strip of leather and lay it along the 
centre of each to raise the stay in the middle. 
Stitch them with beeswax thread, three-cord hemp, 
and make a strong cross-stitch at the end of each 
line, finishing carefully. Now cut the noseband 
1 ft. 3 in. long w^hen turned down, and, after 
preparing it, put one end forming a chape in each 
of the end squares in the shortstays. Stitch two 
rows along the edges of the turn-down, and trim 
the ends neatly. 

Then cut a pair of cheeks I5 in. by 8 in. when 
bent in both ends, and prepare one end in each 
for a buckle, shaving the points of the other turn- 
down. After placing a runner on each cheek and 
a loop and buckle on one end, stitch the opposite 
ends to the two outer squares. Then cut the 
short upward stay ; this is stitched behind in the 
centre square, and the throat lash runs through 
at the other end, the length when doubled being 



Head Collars. 65 

about 4^ in. An opening is left in the top for the 
throat lash. 

The forehead band may next be cut and made 
in the same way as the snaffle bridle forehead 
band. The top strap must be cut 2 ft long by 
1^ in. ; when finished, punch about four holes, on 
both sides. The throat lash is 3 ft. 6 in. by | in., 



Fig. Ho. — JS'ewmai'ket Head Collar. 

with a roller buckle of the same width, and a loop 
and runner, and with about nine holes in it. 

Put the; forehead band on the head strap, 
buckle it on both sides in the cheeks, and run 
the throat lash from the near side through the 
opening in the upward stay and under the head 
strap, then through the opening in the forehead 
band on each side, bringing the point down to the 
buckle on the near side. When the head collar 
is made with only one cheek on the near side, the 



66 



Saddlery. 



strap situated on the other side should be 2 ft. 
9 in. long. 

The Albert head collar (Fig. 24) is made as 
above described, but always has two cheeks, which 
must be turned down to 6 in. long ; it is either 
lined through or the chapes, are stitched at each 
end, these being placed in the side square at the 
bottom, with a 1^-in. ring in the other end of each. 




Fig. 24. — Albert Heal Collar. 



The throat lash may then be run from one ring 
to the other, and rounded by placing a piece of 
cord inside ; it must be passed through the open- 
ing at the top of the short stay, and its length, 
after turning down the chapes in the rings, must 
be 1 ft. 6 in. 

After cutting a piece of leather 1^ in. by 5 in. 
turn it down double, and let it overlap 1 in., and 
put one end of it in the ring on the near side, and 



Head Collars. 



67 



a buckle in the other end with a loop below, stitch- 
ing it firmly from the under side. 

The head strap must be cut the same width 
and then prepared ; let it be 2 ft. long when 
turned in at one end, and stitch this end to the 
ring on the off-side, perforating it with six holes. 
The forehead band must be 1 in. wide. Run the 




Fi- 



■Queen's Pattern Head Collar. 



head strap through both openings in the forehead 
band, and finally buckle it in the near side. 

Head collars are made with brass or tinned 
fittings, the brass being either plain or whole 
fancy pattern, and the cheeks lined or single. 

The Queen's pattern head collar (Fig. 25) is 
made with whole buckles placed on the cheek and 
not in the ring, with a chape, as in the Albert head 
collar. There must be a strap on each side, 6 in. 



68 Saddlery. 

long, to buckle to them, and_a centre piece across 
the top of the head, about 1 ft. long, turned down 
from ring to ring. On the ring there is a collar 
to stitch to the throat lash straps ; it is 7 in. by 
I in. wide when turned down, the throat lash, with 
buckles on each end, coming through the back stay 
1 ft. 6 in. long, and being the same width as the 
straps. 

The forehead band, 1 ft. by 1 in., is turned down 
and stitched opposite the straps at the front of the 
ring ; for a good head collar it should be made of 
buff leather. A length of 6 in. will be sufficient 
for the cheeks ; the rest of the w^ork has been 
already described. 

The heaci collar reins, 5 ft. by \\ in., are made 
of strong single straps, with a buckle loop and 
billet at one end, or part strap and part chain ; 
the latter m attfvched to the head collar either with 
billet and buckle, or with a spring hook and a 
3-ft. strap stitched to the other end. The ends of 
the straps are narrowed in both styles to run 
through the manger block, and a knot is made' 
on the other side. 

Some head collar reins are also made of ropes 
with a buckle chape and billet at one end for 
fastening to the head collar; others are all rope 
with an eye for the passage of the end of the rope 
after it has been run through the head collar 
E-iquare ; then it is knotted below the block in the 
other end. 

Pillar reins are made in two styles ; the first 
has a buckle and billet at one end and a pillar 
rein spring hook in the other ; the second is white 
cord with a buckle and billet and hook at the 
other end, the leather being 2 ft. 6 in. by 1 in. 
The reins are employed to fasten the horse in the 
stall with its head outwards, when harnessed to go 
out ; and they prevent the horse from eating and 
keep it from the dirt. The billet end is fastened 



Head Collars. 69 

to the stall post on each side, and the hooks in the 
bit on each side of the horse's head. 

Not much need be said with respect to the use 
of the head collar, its alternative names, " head- 
stalls '' and " stable collars " sufficiently indicating 
its purpose. It serves merely to fasten up the 
horse in the stable. Several styles — the New- 
market, Albert, and Queen's pattern — have been 
described in this chapter, and each has its own 
advantages in certain circumstances. It has been 
said that the best kind of head collar is that 
with a round throat-lash, from which it is next to 
impossible for the horse to free himself ; at each 
side there should be a ring for the reins to fasten 
into, and to the end of the reins a wooden log or 
ball should be attached. 



70 



CHAPTER IX. 

HORSE CLOTHING. 

Horse clothing is made of many different ma- 
terials. Kersey, fawn rugging, princess check, 
and fancy checked and coloured linen stuff answer 
for day use, and for dust covers in the stable ; the 
shapes and patterns also vary. 

The quarter sheet (Fig. 26) is made with only 
a slight cut backwards) towards the shoulder, and 
a piece of the sa.me material is placed from the 
off side at the front, with a strap 1 ft. 9 in. by 
about 2 in. on its point to buckle in the near side 
where there is a chape and a buckle. The sheet 
itself falls down straight from the shoulder on each 
side, there being a belt across the chest to hold 
down both sides. 

The breast cloth (Fig. 27) is made to cover the 
front of the chest and to run up the side of the 
neck on each side in a point; there is a buckle 
and chape to fasten to two 1 ft. 3 in. by 1 in. 
straps coming down from the shoulder of the 
sheet to meet the buckles. The breast cloth must 
be in a line with the edge of the sheet at the 
bottom. 

The padcloth (Fig. 28) goes under the body 
roller, and is about 1 ft. 3 in. by 1 ft. Use the same 
material as for the sheet, and after rounding the 
corners neatly stitch on the inside, straight with 
the edges, a piece of hogskin, of a wavy pattern 
and about 2 in. wide. Put one piece at each end 
in the centre, 7 in. long, and one on each side of 
the centre. 

A hood is needed to complete ^he suit. A suit- 



Horse Clothing, 71 

able shape is shown by Fig. 29. The hood must 
be cut to the shape of the horse's neck and head, 
from a point about 5^ in. below the eye on the 
nose, then along the ridge of the head and neck 



Fig. 26.— Quarter Sheet. 

to the shoulder, where it should cover the front 
of the sheet well. Cut the holes for the ears, and 
make covers for them, the front part being about 
1 in. larger than the face of the ear all around, and 
the back part large enough to pass round the back 



72 



Saddlery. 



of the ear, and allow it to enter easily. Stitch the 
edges, whipping them together ; stitch also at the 
bottom round the hole, all the stitches being on the 
outside. Take care to put the front cut of the 
cloth opposite the front of the ear. 

Having made two holes, right opposite the 
eyes, cut the hood under the neck all round the 
throat and do^vn under the head, so that the two 
sides meet exactly in the centre. To join and bind 
them, whip-stitch the two parts of the rheet to- 




Fig. 27.— Breast Cloth. 



gether along the back, and then put a piece across 
underneath the shoulder to come down on each 
side about 1 ft. ; let it be pointed at the ends, the 
width in the middle being about 9 in., and all in 
one piece to strengthen the point at the shoulder. 
The padcloth (Fig. 28) is cut in one piece, but 
the pieces of hogskin must be stitched in neatly, 
having been previously pasted on and dried. The 
breast cloth is cut in one piece, but the hood is 
in two pieces, and sometimes in four, as pieces are 



Horse Clothing. 73 

put on the side flaps to increase the size at the 
sides. 

Whip the edges together level along the top of 
the neck and over the head, down the front of the 
face. If a piece is placed anywhere else, let it 
be joined in the same manner, and always bind the 
joint, stitching it on both sides ; cloth, patent, 
or Newmarket binding can be employed for bind- 
ing. To bind the breastcloth, padcloth, and hood 
along the edges, cut the cloth \\ in. wide, and turn 
it round the edges just sufficiently to catch the 
first row of stitching about \ in. from the edge. 
Draw it down as flat as possible, and stitch an- 
other row along the inner edge of all parts of the 




Fig. 28.— Pad Cloth. 

binding. When it puckers too much at a sharp 
turn, as at the throat of the hood, the puckers may 
be cut out and then stitched edge to edge. 

A strip of cloth about 1 in. wide must be put 
across the centre of the padcloth, the ends passing 
under the hogskin piece and binding. Then add 
another strip along the centre of the sheet where 
it joins, and another along the joint on the top of 
the neck of the hood, the ends being always placed 
under the binding. Now place flat strips, \ in. 
wide, along the joints at the side and the points 
of the ear-pieces, then round the bottom to cover 
the ends and the joint. This work can be done by 
machine. 

The onlv difference in a Newmarket sheet is that 



74 



Saddlery 



it is cut on a curve from the shoulder to the front 
at the centre of the chest where both sides meet ; 
there is no breastcloth, the two sides being united 
by a strap and buckle. The last mentioned must 
be on the near side, and the shape like that for a 
saddle girth. Line the shoulder and the corners 
of the chest where the straps are stitched with a 
piece of rugging underneath. 

The hood is fastened under the jaw with a 




Fio. 29.— Hood. 



small strap and. buckle ; cadez strings are run from 
this point to about half-way down the neck on each 
side to tie together. 

The sheets can be bound in two colours, if pre- 
ferred, or with patent bindings, one colour along 
the edge and the other by its side. If red cloth 
is employed for binding, bind it in all along and 
then put blue cloth, about \ in. wide, just to cover 
the edge of the red binding. Catch them both 
under the stitch with the first row of stitching, 



Horse Clothing. 



75 



and finish the upper edge of the binding in the 
same style. 

Princess check of various colours is fine worsted 
material, very light in weight, and of very showy 
appearance. It can be bound with fine worsted 
binding of one or more colours. When cutting the 
sheet for either of the above, the back must not 
be made quite straight, but should be scooped out 




Fig. 30. — Horse Covered. 



a little behind the shoulder towards the loin ; leave 
it full at the rump and slanting a little at the end. 
Fig. 30 illustrates the horse covered. 

Body rollers (Figs. 31 and 32) are made of 
worsted, linen, union, webbing, or leather, with 
one, two, or three straps, a full-sized roller being 
6 ft. 2 in. long. The pad is placed about 10 in. 
from one point, and the shortest end of the roller 
near the pad must be bound with leather and 
stitched with single thread ; let it be 1 in. wide 



76 



Saddlery. 



on each side, and bind the other end, the binding 
being 1 in. wide on the front as at the short end, 
but line the girth for about 6 in. below, and stitch 
it along the edge of the roller. Then raise a stitch 
over the edge of the leather in the girth without 
running through, and with a lead-pencil mark a line 




Fig. 31.— Body Roller. 



across 10 in. from the end without lining, then 
a second line 1 ft. away, and two more 5^ in. from 
each line in the space ; thus there will be a H-in. 
space between the two last cross lines. 

Cut out a piece of stiff cardboard to the same 
width as the roller, and 1 in. below each of the 
extreme cross lines thin the edges. Next cut a 



Horse Clothing. 



77 



piece of white serge (v/hen the girth is leather 
use basil or hogskin) to reach 2 in. below the two 
end lines., and \ in. wider on each side of the 
girth. Narrow the centre of a piece of hogskin, 
1 ft. 4 in. by 1^ in., to a little less than half 
opposite the space between the two inner lines. 




Fi<r. 32.— Body Roller, 



Having rounded the four corners, cut slanting 
from the extreme rounded part towards the ends 
until the hogskin is about \ in. wide at the point. 
Two of these pieces will be needed to face the 
panel on each side. Then turn down the serge 
along the edges lengthwise just \ in., and back 
and whip it to the facing along the shaped edge 



'78 Saddlery. 

— not the straight edge — placing them centre to 
centre ; the full and narrow parts of the facings 
must correspond on each side. 

Two pieces of leather must be cut, 2^ in. deep 
and of the same width as the roller ; crease them 
along the two longer sides with a hot iron, and 
then cut two similar pieces of basil and two strong 
\\-\n. brown leather straps, 1 ft. 6 in. long. After 
pointing one end and shaving the other, crease 
them double with a hot iron and make eight holes 
in each. Place one of the pieces of basil under- 
neath, level with the edges of the roller, the top 
part reaching a little above the line near the 
shorter end from the pad. 

The two straps are placed within \ in. of the 
line, pointing towards the short end of the roller, 
and are then stitched down firmly through the 
roller and the under piece of basil. Next the 
first two pieces of hogskin of the same width as 
the roller are placed one on each end of the part 
to be occupied by the pad, their upper edges 
reaching about ^ in. above the two end lines. 
The other piece of basil is placed under the end 
where there are no straps. 

After tacking down the basil, cut a piece big 
enough to pass across the roller from side to side 
and If in. wide ; crease it lengthwise and tack 
it in the centre to cover the two central lines. 
Now place the piece of cardboard underneath 
equidistant at both ends from the centre, and tack 
it down. 

The other piece of hogskin goes at the other 
end of the pad to correspond with the similar 
piece on the opposite side, and cover the stitched 
ends of the straps. 

The two pieces at each end can now be stitched 
through the roller and cardboard along the upper 
cross line of each ; also stitch the ends of the 
centre piece of the edge of the roller and card- 



Horse Clothing. 79 

board, leaving the two cross lines unstitched. 
Take the serge lining and facing and put them 
centre to centre at each side of the roller ; then 
whip the facing to the roller along both edges 
through the web and cardboard. Take care that 
the ends of the serge and facing reach equal 
distanc3s just below the cross line stitched in the 
two end pieces. 

A thin strip of hogskin should be cut for bind- 
ing, about \ in. wide. Both edges must.be bound 
from the extreme end of the pieces of leather at 
each end of the pad to the end of the other piece 
at the opposite extremity of the pad. Distribute 
the lining equally on both sides of the centre, 
and stitch the two cross lines in the middle piece 
of hogskin from one side to the other, thus making 
two separate compartments. 

Two rows of stitching must now be made 
through the leather at the strap end of the pad 
downwards between the straps and close to them ; 
then make two corresponding rows in the leather 
at the other end of the panel. This can now be 
stuffed with flock through the opening at the 
bottom ; both sides must be stuffed firm and level 
to the same size, and the edge of the serge turned 
in at the bottom. Raise a stitch to fasten the 
leather lining on the roller opposite the serge. 

Then cut twenty small round or scalloped pieces 
of leather, a little smaller than a threepenny bit, 
of coloured roan or hogskin ; quilt the panel with 
five stitches at each side on every part, making 
twenty in all. They must be in a perfectly straight 
line, and 1 in. from the edge, the needle being 
driven from below, then through the small circle 
of leather, and down through it again and the 
roller. 

Having then firmly knotted it to the panel 
below with a small tuft of coloured wool under 
each knot, cut two chapes for two l^-in. buckles. 



8o Saddlery. 

and two loops. Stitch the chapes with the outside 
of the buckles flush with the end of the roller, 
and straight to the straps. 

Another loop must be cut sufficiently long to 
reach across the girth ; finish it neatly and stitch 
it across at both ends. Make also two cross rows 
in the centre, with sufiicient space on each side 
of them to allow the two straps to enter. This 
last loop must be about 6 in. lower down than 
the chapes. Having blocked, creased, and fin- 
ished the loops properly, place a fancy stamp in 
the centre of each. 

The above instructions apply also to the making 
of a stallion roller, but this must have dees, which 
are set in before the panel is adjusted ; then the 
binding can be placed round or under the chapes. 
Wider web may be employed, and three straps 
instead of two ; also, there may be whole brass or 
silver buckles to fasten them, instead of plain 
buckles, and two long loops below the chapes 
instead of a buckle. 

The leather girths are sometimes made in the 
same way, except that there need not be any 
lining under the buckles when they are firm and 
good. 

Surcingles are made for the same purpose as 
rollers, but have no panels. 



CHAPTER X. 

KNEE-CAPS AND MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES. 

Knee-caps (Figs. 33 to 35) are of felt, fawn rug- 
ging, kersey cloth, union, buff leather, black rub- 
ber, etc. 

It is better to buy the padsi, but they can be 
made if so desired as follows : When there is 
no press available, damp some half-curried leather, 
and beat it asi a shoemaker beats boot soles until 
it acquires the hollow cup shape. After it has 
had time to dry, ^cut it to a wide oval shape, about 
5 in. by 4 in., and make the cloth, kersey, or 
leather about 8 in. at the top and 9 in. deep. 

Round the bottom part, and bind all except 
the straight top with cadez patent binding or 
cloth ; the buff need not be bound. Then, on the 
centre, place the leather block, w^ith a piece of 
shaped cardboard underneath, pasting the two 
together, and pressing down the cloth to the 
hollow. Stitch the blocked leather to the cloth, 
about li in. from the top and 1| in. from the 
bottom, and cut a piece of leather 1|- in. wide 
and 1 in. longer at each end than the cloth at the 
top. Make a hole at each end 1 in. from the point 
for a |-in. strap, placing a chape, buckle, and 
loop in the hole at one end, and a strap of similar 
width, 9 in. long, in the other hole, and stitching 
them both firmly. 

If preferred, a small square may be placed in 
the strap side, with a chape to fasten in the hole, 
a second square being used for fastening the strap, 
with an indiarubber ring f in, wide between the 
two squares, 
p 



82 



Saddlery. 



A piece of chamois leather will be needed to 
make a roll at the top of the same length and 




Fig. 33. — Knee-cap. 

width as the strap, the chamois leather being 
stitched all along through the top leather and 
the cloth. The chamois must hang down in front 




% 



Fig. '6i. — Knee-3ap. 

of the knee-cap while this is being done, the *• 
three edges being placed together; thus, they 



Knee-caps and Miscellaneous Articles. Zt^ 

can be stitched, the top leather reaching to the 
same distance over each end. 

Turn the chamois leather over the top towards 
the bottom, and stitch it along the bottom side 




Fig-. 35.— Knee-cap. 

of the top strap through cloth and strap, leaving 
it rather slack. Then make two rows of stitches 
across in the centre, leaving an opening of about 




Fig. 86.— Fetlock Boot. 

1^ in. exactly in the centre between the two cross 
lines. 

After stuffing the two parts of the roll from 
each end with flock, close the ends by stitching 



84 



Saddlery 



the chamois and top leather together. Next put 
a |-in. chape buckle and loop at the bottom of the 
block pad, making them slant downwards slightly, 
with a strap 10 in. long at the opposite side for 




FeLlock Boot. 



fastening. The buckles must be reversed when 

making a pair, each buckle being on the outside. 

Sometimes the best knee-caps have the knee 




Fig-. 38.— Lace Speedy-cut Boot. 



block cut with a piece to come from the top to 
catch the top strap, and to be stitched under it; 
this is a great improvement, even when there is 
a separate piece of leather. 



Knee-caps and Miscellaneous Articles. 85 

Fetlock boots (Fig. 36) are made of leather, 
indiariibber, cloth and leather, or, as ia Curtis's 
patent, of zinc and leather, according to the part 
on which the horse catches itself. It is scarcely 
worth while to make them, as they can be bought 
in all varieties and patterns ready-made, like per- 
forated lace leggings, lace fetlock boot (Fig. 37), 
roll-cutting boot, top-roll fetlock boot, back sinew 
boot, lace or buckle speedy-cut boot (Figs. 38 and 
39), over-reach boot of indiarubber to slip on over 




Fig-. 39.— Buckle Speedy-cut Boot. 



the hoof, and indiarubber ring boot (Fig. 40), 
either solid or hollow. 

Fetlock boots made by the saddler should have 
a cup just like the knee-cap to cover the fetlock. 
A side leg boot, made for a horse that catches 
above the fetlock, must be cut to reach almost 
from joint to joint ; it is stiffened along the centre 
inside, and has three straps and buckles on the 
outside. 

Hoofswabs are made of felt or leather, the 
sole being cut the same shape as the hoof ; leather 
is placed round to cover the top of the hoof, fitting 



86 



Saddlery, 



tightly and slanting upwards, and is fastened 
behind with a buckle and loop. 

Poultice boots are made in the same way, but 
have a piece of strong canvas above to keep the 
poultice round the top of the hoof ; each is fast- 
ened behind with strings at the top, and a strap 
with a buckle at the bottom. 

False collars (Fig. 41) are very valuable when 
all other means of easing a collar have failed. 
They are made to fit inside a collar, but should 
not be so thick as to interfere with its size, even 
when quilted. Some are made of single leather, 




Fig. 40.— Ring Boot. 



others of one thickness of felt, and some are 
quilted. All are alike in pattern, but the quilted 
ones need a little allowance for the stuffing and 
quilting, say \\ in. in the width ; the shape is 
similar to that of a collar lining. 

A brown paper pattern should be cut out first 
to fit the collar, and then be manipulated so that 
the creases come out in the trimmings. Run a 
single thickness forward quite to the front to cover 
the wide part of the body of the collar well, and 
come out beyond the body all round about 1^ in. 

The single leather and felt collar must be cut 
to pattern, and seamed both ends together, with 



KXEE-CAPS AND MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES. 87 

a strap and buckle at both sides and at the bot- 
tom to keep them in place. Crease the leather 
double with a hot iron along the edges, and when 
felt is employed it is advisable to place a piece of 
thin leather over all the joints and stitch it on 
each side of them, having previously joined the 
felt end to end. 

The felt must always be cut lengthwise, not 
crosswise, as it will only stretch across. 




Fig-. 41.— Fals3 Coliai. 

To make a quilted collar, cut the leather 1^ in. 
wider, but do not let it reach beyond the forewale 
outside. When cutting it, allow about 1^ in. more 
in width than the finished size. Four pieces of 
basil will be needed, two for each side reversed ; 
each pair must be stitched together, whipped over 
the edges with the flesh outside and the ends 
stitched together, so as to form a bag from end 
to end. Having cut a hole so that it will be out 



88 Saddlery. 

of sight when finished on the side next the collar, 
turn the collar inside out, and cut a similar, though 
smaller, hole in the other side. 

Both sides should be stuffed separately through 
these holes. A piece of strong, fine cane will be 
required, long enough to run all round the hollow 
between the body and forewale of the collar 
inside, meeting in the point at the top. Put it 
through one of the holes in front of the false 
collar, and spot it in, drawing the leather tightly 
over it all round. Thus, when the collar is fin- 
ished, the cane will fit into this hollow with a 
spring, keeping it in place close to the body. 

After that, stuff the collar with fine flock, put- 
ting more stuffing at the draught if necessary, and 
then quilt it and stitch up the holes in the sides. 
Run a row of quilting along the outside near the 
edge first, and then two rows inside tow^ards the 
cane, a very small tuft of wool being also placed 
inside under every stitch. 

The thread must not be cut and knotted at 
each stitch, but should be just pulled home, and 
the thread run from one stitch to the other ; it 
must not be baggy, but smooth and even all over. 
Finally, place it in position, and catch it as firmly 
as possible with the spring cane in the hollow 
under the forewale. 



89 



CHAPTER XI. 

REPAIRING HARNESS AND SADDLERY. 

The renovation and repair of harness and saddlery 
will be treated in this chapter. It is hardly neces- 
sary to point out that it is economical to repair 
harness and to keep it in good condition, rather 
than to let it be worn out straightaway and then to 
replace with new again. It always pays to attend 
at once to defective or broken parts, such a system 
saving time as well as money, and lessening the 
risk of accident that is ever-present where safety 
of life and limb depends on the strength of straps 
and buckles. 

For the benefit of the uninitiated, the trade 
names of the many parts of a complete set of har- 
ness are given below, the letter references being 
to Fig. 42. A shows the blinker ; b, cheek ; c, 
front ; d, headpiece ; E, nosepiece ; f, throatlatch ; 
G, bearing-rein rounding ; H, bearing-rein middle ; 
I, collar ; J, hame-tug ; k, trace ; l, backhand ; m, 
bellyband ; N, saddle ; o, flap ; p, skirt ; Q, swell ; 
R, shaft-tug ; s, saddle seat ; t, terret ; u, bearing- 
rein hook ; V, breeching-strap ; w, breeching-seat ; 
X, breeching-tugs ; Y, split hip-strap ; z, crupper ; 
a', crupper dock; b', driving-reins. 

When repairing trap or carriage harness of all 
kinds, such as reins, breeching straps, crupper 
billets, etc., shave the under side of the splice on 
the top and the top part underneath, making them 
as nearly as possible of the same thickness as a 
single strap. 

A splice must never be stitched across in a 
single strap, but always forward along the strap. 
When, however, only two rows are made in a splice. 



90 



Saddle RV. 



always put two or three stitches in the centre of 
the top lay of the splice at the point. 




«> t 



i^n 



To make a splice in a pair of reins, or where 



Repairing Harness and Saddlery. 91 

the leather is of one thickness, only pare the ends 
and lap them as in Fig. 43. 

The straps of the bridle have to be patched and 
replaced sometimes. When furnishing winkers 
with new chapes, make them like the old ones, and 
when treating a strap, shave the patch or splice as 
near as possible to the single thickness. 

The bearing-rein rounding g (Fig. 42), whfen 
broken, is perhaps one of the most unsatisfactory 
parts to repair, because, its shape being round, 
sufficient cannot be pared from the old leather to 
give place to the new. The broken ends may be 
reduced a little, and the parts drawn together by 
stitches from one piece to the other and thin leather 
lapped round, extending 1 in. or so on each side, 
and stitched closely along the edge. 



Fig. 48. — Spliced Leather Rein. 

Chapes are put on head collar squares in the 
following manner: — Open the parts where the 
chapes are to be, and run them between the 
leathers, thinning the ends a little first, and making 
a strong cross stitch near the ends. 

For lining shaft tugs, a somewhat frequent job, 
use, if possible, sole leather for the outer piece of 
lining. The stitches being made coarser than for a 
new tug, cut a groove in the outer lining all along 
on both sides, and sink the stitches. Never cut 
the old lining straight across without thinning its 
end and that of the new piece for splicing. It must 
overlap the old one, not merely meet it end to 
end. 

In lining shaft tugs, try to make them level. 
Sometimes three or four thicknesses of leather will 
be needed, but the length must be regulated and 



92- Saddlery. 

the ends of every piece shaved, so that, when placed 
together, they will run down to the thickness of the 
old parts. Always make the chapes long enough 
for such things as bearers and breeching straps, 
etc., shaving the ends to be joined to the chape, 
and finishing neatly. 

The inside of shaft-tug R (Fig. 42), is specially 
liable to damage owing to constant friction with 
the shaft. In some cases only that part of the 
lining under the loop is worn away. To repair this 
part, take a piece of stout leather long enough to 
reach beyond each end of the loop, and stitch it on 
each side only where the loop is, with four rows at 
each end. Use the screw-race for making a groove 
in the leather, so that the stitches may lie well 
below the surface to prevent unnecessary wear. If 
the lining has to be continued all round, take out 
the old one and cut a strip about 12 in. long ; bend 
it down, grain inside, 1 in. from one end ; scoop out 
a piece in the middle of the bend for the heel of the 
buckle tongue to lie in, and pare both ends for a lap 
splice. When put into the tug, it will appear to be 
too long, but the thin end of the strip must be bent 
and fastened in its place by a nail on each side of it, 
and the lining then worked into place by rubbing 
the fingers round inside until it assumes its proper 
shape. 

Forcing in the lining by this means makes the 
tug solid and strong. A strip of sole leather 
soaked in water and sewn in wet makes a better 
lining than harness leather where a tug is sub- 
jected to very rough wear. Use the tug clamp for 
any of this work. These special clamps are illus- 
trated by Figs. 52 to 55, pp. 24, 25, of " Harness 
Making." 

In the hame-tug j (Fig. 42) there is a clip (Fig. 
44) with which to connect the tug to the draft of the 
hame. This clip sometimes snaps at one of the 
rivet holes and causes the leather to break. The 



Repairing Harness and Saddlery, 



93 



broken leather must be pared away from each side 
of the break laid on as described on p. 96 in repair- 
ing the middle of backhand. Owing to the iron 
clip inside, this can only be sewn along each edge. 

If the clip has become very much worn, it is 
best to put in a new clip at once, and so avoid 
further trouble. Rip the stitches holding the top 
and bottom pieces to the middle, knock out the two 
rivets which fasten the clip to the tug, and fix in a 
new one, forcing the prongs of clip together in a 
vice and riveting them firmly. New leather may 
now be put from the end of tug to the loop instead 
of splicing in a piece ; and if this new piece is to go 



Fi^. 44.— Hame Tug- Clip. 

on the top of the tug, stitch the two inside rows 
first on the new leather before fixing it in its place. 

Always trim and finish the work off neatly, and 
where the edges, as in this case, cannot be polished 
with a cloth, a finished appearance may be imparted 
by the free use of a smooth bone (the handle of a 
worn-out tooth-brush, for instance). The bono 
rubber is illustrated on p. 28 of "Harness 
Making." 

Some parts of a set of harness being subjected 
to rougher wear or more intense strain, naturally 
get damaged much sooner than other parts. Say 
the end of a trace (k. Fig. 42) breaks at one of the 
holes. This may be repaired either by splicing the 
broken parts together, or by putting on a new point. 
The first method is not always satisfactory, because 



94 



Saddlery. 



when finished this trace will be shorter than its 
fellow. 

In splicing the end of a trace, cut the broken 
ends off square, and open the one on the short piece 
by running a knife between the two layers of 
leather for about 3^ in. and separating them. Bend 
them well apart, lay over the edge of the bench, 
and with the round knife pare away until there is a 
gradual taper on each. Now take the long piece 
and pare the end away, top and bottom, until it 
resembles a wedge. This is fitted into the other 
part, and two or three nails are driven through to 
hold it whilst being sewn. The next hole towards 
the point should be level with the hole in wear on 
the other trace. 

Lay both traces on the bench to see that all 
holes are even, or an unequal strain may sooner or 



Fig. 45.— Spliced Trace. 



later cause the shorter one to break, and probably 
give the horse a sore shoulder in the meantime. 
Full instructions for making threads are given in 
Chapter II. of "Harness Making." Judgment 
must be used in making a thread of suitable size. 
This will depend principally on the number of 
stitches per inch. Sew in the old holes, drive the 
awl straight through, and pull the stitches well in. 
Shave the edges evenly with the spokeshave, put 
on some dye, and rub up with a cloth to give it a 
polish. Fig. 45 shows this kind of joint. 

To put a new point to a broken trace, cut off 
at the last hole, and measure it. A new point 
should never be put on between the holes, as the 



Repairing Harness and Saddlery. 95 

splice would be stiff, and difficult to get through the 
buckle and loop. 

Cut a strip of good leather with the cutting 
gauge, and from the thickest end measure off two 
pieces the length required. Cut the end of one 
piece to a point, mark it with the compasses, and 
prick it with an iron the same number of teeth per 
inch as the old stitching, using the small mallet for 
this purpose ; pare the ends for the splice as just 
described, and tack the pieces together with a few 
nails. The bottom piece should be \ in. shorter 
than the top piece at the splice ; this makes a more 
even joint. 

After it is all sewn, lay it top side downwards 
on the bench, and with a stout round stick (a ham- 
mer handle will do) rub the stitches well down. 
Gut off the surplus leather at the point (bottom 
strip), run an edge-tool along all the edges, and 
with the spokeshave finish the edges to a crescent 
shape. Dye these, and, before rubbing them with 
a cloth, draw a piece of tallow along. This will 
give a nice smooth finish. Lay the trace on the 
bench and place the other above it ; mark through 
the holes of this on to the new leather, and punch 
on the lead-piece. 

In repairing thick backhands and traces, splic- 
ing should if possible be avoided. Shave both ends 
of the break, and just tack the ends together, then 
put pieces of leather at both sides until the required 
thickness is obtained, the pieces being shorter and 
thinner-shaved at the ends nearer the centre. As 
a rule, stitch four rows along the patch, and one or 
two stitches in the centre of the points. If the 
entire part, such as the holed part in a trace, is not 
worth patching, put in a new piece, keeping the old 
one to mark the new ; the joint at the splice must 
be very neat, not thick and clumsy. In the same 
way, if the other end is gone, add a new piece, 
making it thicker than at the other parts. 



96 Saddlery. 

When the centre of the backhand is not worth 
patching, make a new centre, but generally the 
strap end and bellyband part can be used. Having 
measured the part, cut off and allow enough extra 
to make a splice in each end ; put the strap in one 
end and the bellyband in the other. 

A backhand, L (Fig. 42) generally breaks at one 
of the tug buckle holes, or at some part near the 
middle where it passes under the saddle-skirts, p, 
or seat, s. This part of the backhand is sometimes 
made up of three thicknesses of leather, and it 
may be that only the top or bottom strip is broken. 
Take off both tugs, lay the backhand, broken side 
up, across the bench, and with the round knife 
skive out a piece about 2^ in. each side of the break. 
Cut a piece of new leather to fit, and if it is for the 
top of the backhand, mark the number of lines and 
prick them. See that the part under repair is of 
equal substance with the rest, then sew it and 
finish off. 

Before putting the backhand into the saddle, 
the off-side tug must be put on. The point of the 
backhand is passed through the loop first, from the 
bottom, then over the tongue and through the 
buckle, when' it is easily got into position. Then 
pass the point of the backhand under the off-side 
skirt on the opposite side of p, and through to the 
near side. Buckle the other tug in its place. 

If any difficulty is experienced in getting the 
backhand through, bend the point down at the 
start, and if not successful then, put a piece of 
strong string through the first hole and pass the 
two ends of the string through ; by this means it 
can be readily pulled into place. 

The bridgeband is frequently torn across in 
some part or other of the body ; to repair it, shave 
the ends thin, and join the break with a few 
stitches. New pieces must be put on both sides, 
and, when necessary, another in the centre. Let 



JvEPAiRiNG Harness and Saddlery. 97 

the top lay be 1 in. longer at each end than the 
lower lay, and shave it thin at both ends. Next 
make four or five rows of strong stitches from end 
to end, but never stitch the patches across ; also 
make a few stitches at the centre in the points, 
keeping to a uniform thickness as much as possible. 

The above remark applies to the backhand, 
bellyband, or crupper of the leading gear when 
they are torn. In case of chapes like those for 
bridgeband tugs, use strong leather, shave the 
ends, and let the upper side be a little longer than 
the lower ; also thin the part put in a little. 

Broken loops in harness frequently occur. To 
repair them, cut a piece of leather the same width 
as the broken loop. Its length should be reckoned 
at about three times the width of the strap it is 
going into. Take off the edges with a small edge- 
tool and rub them up ; push one end half-way 
through the opening made by taking out the old 
pieces ; sew in this side ; then, turning in the other 
end, sew that also, running the awl in a slanting 
direction towards the edge as the middle is ap- 
proached. Block it up on a loopstick, w^hich must 
be the same width as the strap, warm the creasing 
tool, and mark the loop along its edge. 

Surcingles and saddle girths often break in the 
centre ; stitch the ends together, and make a basil 
cover tight enough to pass round them, stitching 
each side, and then put it over the end of the girth, 
making four or more rows of stitching along it. 

In the skirt of the saddle, s (Fig. 42) a large stud 
or bolt is shown. Many saddles are made without 
this, and it often happens that the stitching at this 
part breaks away, and if not repaired at once is 
likely to lead to the whole of the saddle-top being 
pulled off. 

To do such a repair, knock out the nail under 
the iron crupper loop and loosen the panel from the 
flaps o about half-way down one side. The skirt 
G 



93 Saddlery. 

can then be sewn down to the flap again. If the 
panel was fixed in with copper wire, a close ex- 
amination of the old wire will give the size and 
method to be employed in replacing it in its 
position. 

Very often the panel, especially when the saddle 
is old, is merely stitched to the flaps at intervals, 
four or five stitches being made at each place, and 
this is an easier plan. Fasten it under the iron 
crupper loop with a small clout nail padded with 
serge, and trim this off to a small tuft. 

Re-lining collars and saddles is dealt with in 
detail in the next chapter, but a note or two on the 
subject may here be given. A saddle panel may 
need a new lining and stuffing. Begin work by re- 
moving it, and, if the back and facing are good 
enough, cut off the old lining close to the stitches 
running by the side of the facing, but let part of the 
lining and stitches be there to keep the facing in 
place. Cut the new lining as for a new panel, and 
tack it with hemp, turning in the edges and spot- 
stitching it down by the facing along both sides. 
On the outside, the stitch must be small and neat. 
Stitch the lining in at the top along the old marks, 
and whip it in at the bottom. 

The panel is stuffed like a new panel, and for a 
good saddle is quilted and adjusted with wire, or 
spotted and stitched all along ; for a common 
saddle, five or six stitches together here and there 
wull suffice. When the back is good and the facing 
bad, stitch on a new facing with new^ cord, and 
stitch the lining like a new one. 

Sometimes a saddle panel has to be stuffed and 
raised without lining ; to do this, cut a hole across 
at the centre, and fill each end, levelling the stuff 
with the seat aw^l. 

In repairing riding saddles, the same principles 
are followed as for making new ones ; as a rule, 
the back of the panel can remain with a new pane} 



Repairing Harness and Saddlery. 99 

affixed, and also the hogskin facing. Remove all 
else, put in a new lining, and stuff like new. 

When a riding saddle tree is broken, a black- 
smith will often repair it, especially when the plate 
is broken, but it must be stripped and everything 
put back as before. 

When a saddle needs a new tree, begin by 
taking off the old top, doing as little damage to the 
flaps and skirts as possible. The skirts can often 
be utilised again like the flaps, so that only a tree 
seat and cantle cover will be needed. Make it up 
like a new one, and damp the skirts and flaps to 
make them easier to handle ; also remove the old 
nails from the leather before employing new ones. 
If the skirts are gone, new ones must be cut out to 
the same pattern. 

When the cover of a collar forewale is worn in 
any way, put on a piece, and shave both ends well 
and thinly ; then stitch it along the bottom of the 
forewale between the forewale and the body. If 
the lining is worn in some places, line it without 
taking off the old straw, and put in new flock ; 
place the lining along the forewale, and stitch it 
with a lace-collar needle and handiron, turning it 
down to cover the stitches, and drawing it in along 
the old stitches in the sidepiece if necessary. A 
little fresh straw can be placed under the draught, 
a wisp or two being placed in with the stick, and 
hammered with the mallet to fill it and tighten. 

The best plan, however, is to take the sidepiece 
off entirely, and make a new body as for a new 
collar, the sidepieces being damped and put back 
just like new ones. When the leather to which the 
lining is stitched at the forewale is worn too much, 
the stitches can be run through and out at the 
same side, as with false lining. 

Collars also are half-lined, and a strip of new 
lining is sometimes placed under the draught ; the 
straw and flock required are then put through the 



100 Saddlerv. 

opening. The last two methods do not interfere 
with the sidepiece ; the lining is merely drawn to * 
it and stitched on. The subject is dealt with more 
fully in the next chapter. 

A collar can be reduced in the following way. 
Open the top, remove the top piece, and then, with 
pincers, pull some wisps from the straw in the fore- 
wale until both sides meet easily. Now stitch the 
ends together to the required size, turn down the <" 
sidepiece and lining, cut the straw in the body to 
size, fasten both ends of the body together, and put 
the sidepiece on as before. 

To put a piece in a collar to make it larger, 
shave the ends of the forewale thin, and again re- 
move a few wisps. Cut a piece of leather of the 
same wddth as the leather in the forewale, and < 
stitch it, joining it well with the old leather and 
shaving the joint thin. Put in some fresh Avisps 
and a short collar iron, one after the other, until 
the forewale is hard enough", taking care to join 
the straw well, so that there will be no hinge. 

The iron must be beaten in with the straw on it 
by a mallet, as it cannot very well be knocked on ^ 
the block. When long enough, close the top, and 
unless it is much enlarged, flock in the body will 
suffice to lengthen it. Stitch a piece of lining or 
basil to the new piece on the forewale, and fasten 
it in the shape of the body by stitching the other 
side ; then stuff it tightly with flock. Join the top 
and put a cap on the forewale and a patch in the 
sidepiece of sufficient length to cover the new part. 

Wtih regard to cleaning and renovating, it is 
obvious that harness and saddlery, to be main- 
tained in good order, should be kept thoroughly 
cleansed from all dirt, whether splashings from the 
road or exudations from the horse. 

For cleansing harness use w^arm water (not hot), 
a stiff brush, and a little soft soap. After well * 
washing it, wipe with an old cloth, and before it is 



Repairixg Harness and Saddlery. ioi 

> quite dry appl}^ a dressing of pure neatsfoot oil, 
and hang up for a few hours in the shade. It will 
then be foun.d quite pliable, and if there is aiiy 
objection to the dull appearance of the leather, it 
may be brushed over with a thin coat of harness 
composition and polished with another brush. A 
soft cloth will give it quite a lustre, and a set of 
harness treated in this way will always be found to 
look neat, and to last twice as long as it would if 
never cleaned. 

The collar and saddle linings should be kept 
free from scurf and other dirt, either by applying a 
stiff brush or by scraping with a blunt knife, and 
should always be hung up and thoroughly dried 
before being used again. This careful treatment 

-' not only preserves the collar and saddle, but is also 
very beneficial to the horse, preventing sore 
shoulders and back, and tending to greater comfort 
altogetlier. 

An occasional loosening of the padding by beat- 
ing the lining all over with a thin stick will keep 
it soft and prevent irritation. All buckles should 

• be unfastened, and the under part of each one 
thoroughly cleaned and polished. If only the parts 
in sight are cleaned, an accumulation of verdigris 
will ultimately destroy the leather Avhere the 
buckle rests on it, causing it to crack across at the 
hole, with the possible result of a serious accident. 
Where harness is required for daily use it is 

« advisable to have an alternate set. Of course, this 
implies double outlay at first, but the advantages 
of possessing an extra collar and saddle will afford 
ample compensation. 

Shifting the buckle to another hole occasionally 
is another means — small, but not to be despised — 
of extending the life of a set of harness ; but in 

^ altering traces, breeching-straps, and such like, it 
i3 necessary to proceed equally on both sides iry 
order to avoid unequal strain. 



103 SaddleRW 

Where there is room for it, and where its cost | 
does not preclude its use, a saddle-cleaning horse * 
as -seen in harness-rooms attached to stables might 
with advantage be employed. Such a horse may 
be a high table with substantial legs, these sup- 
porting, besides the table top, one or two shelves 
for holding miscellaneous articles. The saddle 
rest fits on the table top, and in section is shaped 
thus : A • It is desirable to add two side leaves * 
so that the horse can be conveniently used for 
many purposes other than saddle cleaning. 



\^ 



103 
CHAPTER XII. 

P.E-LINING COLLARS AND SADDLES. 

Before undertaking the re-lining of collars and 
saddles, all sores and abrasions on the horse, to 
which the collar or saddle belongs, must be noted 
and the collar or saddle marked, so that any cavity 
to be formed for the relief of these may be in the 
right place. 

In the case of a collar, the best place for a guide- 
mark is on the afterwale c (Fig. 46). 

A cart saddle usually hurts in the gullet under 
the bearing-rein hook or beneath one of the terrets, 
the discomfort being generally due to lack of suffi- 
cient padding. If it hurts in the gullet, it may be 
altered by padding the sides well ; but if the injury 
is on one or both sides, then the stuffing must be 
removed, and the lining drawn firmly down to the 
back of the pannel. 

The various parts constituting a collar are in- 
dicated in Fig. 46, in which a denotes the cap which 
covers the stitches made in joining the ends of the 
forewale b ; the afterwale c is the outer covering 
of the body side. That part of the collar marked 
E is called the throat, and through the line f is the 
draught. The substance of the collar at f is 
greater than at any other part, the increased sub- 
stance being necessary, not only on account of 
most of the wear falling here, but also in order 
that the tugs and traces may be kept clear of the 
horse. 

When collars are very much worn down at the 
draught, it is sometimes necessary to place a pad 
under the point of the hame, so that the tugs may 
be kept clear of the shoulders. This pad may be 
sewn to the collar or kept in place by small straps 
buckled round the hame point. 



104 



S.inni.ERV. 



When repairing collars, it is preferable to 
remedy any defect to the afterwale before the new 
lining is put in. 

The materials employed in lining collars and 
saddles are (1) collar cloth, (2) serge, (3) leather. 
For cart collars and saddles the first is used, and 
for cab and gig work either serge or leather. 

In re-lining a cart collar the lining is not carried 
completely round the inside ; it seldom reaches 
beyond the points indicated by x x (Fig. 46). Each 
end of the lining is gathered to fulness, and, when 
stuffed, keeps the collar clear of the horse at the 
throat and on the withers. 




Fio-. -IG.— C.ib Collar. 



Cab and gig collars are not re-lined in this 
manner, but the new lining is made to cover all the 
inside. Fig. 47 represents the method of cutting 
the lining for one side of the collar. When leather 
is used, it is necessary, of course, to reverse the 
pattern in cutting the other half. The lining is 
made to lap at the throat, as shown at e (Fig. 46), 
and is fitted in quite close at the top. 

With regard to the tools used in re-lining collars, 
etc., the hand-iron is used for pushing the needles 
through the collar. It is made with either a 
straight or bent stem, the latter being preferred by 



J^K-LiNixG Collars and Saddles. 



10 



many on account of its being less liable to slip 
through the hand. Half-moon needles are made in 
sizes ranging from 3 in. to 7 in. in length, the 
thickness increasing proportionately. One each, 

4 in. and 5 in. long, will answer all the requirements 
for ordinary work. Straight collar needles, 4 in., 

5 in., and 6 in. being the most useful sizes, are also 
necessary. Seat-awls will be required for shifting 
and finally adjusting the stuffing, or " levelling " as 
it is called. 

Collar cloth, 40 in. wide, costs Is. 4d. to Is. 9d. 




Fig. il. — Lining- of Cab Collar 



per yard ; serges, 2s. to 3s. ; and collar basils, 2s. to 
2s. 6d. per lb. The basils are unstrained, this con- 
dition rendering them more pliable to work and 
softer in wear than those which have been strained. 
Suitable basils may be bought at any large leather 
warehouse, but serges and collar cloths can be 
obtained only of saddlers' ironmongers. Flock for 
stuffing will also be necessary ; it costs from 16s. 6d. 
to 24s. per cwt. ; some houses supply 14 lb. of good 
drum flock at 2|d. per lb. Collar twine, 9d. per 
i-lb. ball, and fine tarred twine. Is. 2d. per hank, 
are used for sewing in the linings, but these are not 



to6 Saddlery. 

absolutely necessary ; a ball of brown hemp, some 
shoemakers' wax, and beeswax will answer the 
same purpose. 

For a saddler's black wax melt in a pan over a 
slow fire till thoroughly amalgamated \ lb. of pitch 
and \ lb. of resin, stirring slowly the while, then 
add about half a pennyworth of boiled linseed oil, 
and pour a small quantity of the mixture into a 
bucket of cold water. Allow to stand for half a 
minute, then pull the mixture hand over hand ; if 
it sticks well together without cracking or break- 
ing, it is right as to softness, but if it cracks and 
breaks, put in more oil ; if too soft, add more resin 
or pitch. If the mixture is of the desired con- 
sistency, pour it all into the cold water, and pull 
it hand over hand till it floats on the water ; cut a 
small piece and throw it in to try. Add more or 
less oil (or tallow will do), according to the weather. 
Having procured the necessary tools and 
material, and made careful observation of any sores 
and tender places on the horse, the w^ork of re- 
lining may be proceeded with, a cab collar (Fig. 46) 
being dealt with first. 

The lining, whether of serge or leather, is cut 
the same shape, the only difference being that the 
serge is reversible, whereas the leather is not. 
Begin sewing in at the top ; use a straight collar 
needle, passing it through from the outside below 
the forewale and into the crease where the old 
lining is joined to it. The edge of the new lining is 
turned inwards, and the needle passed through it 
and brought out again so that the stitch lies hidden 
in the folded edge. Push through to the outside 
again, then return, and repeat until the throat is 
reached, when the other half must be lapped about 
\ in., and the sewing continued until the top is 
reached again. The splice at the throat should be 
exactly in the middle, as shown at E. 

When the stitching has been completed, the 



Re-linikg Collars and Saddles. 



107 



collar will be ready for stuffing. Loosen the flock 
well, and lay it evenly all over the body side, using 
very little at the throat and the top, so that the 
depth may not suffer. Remove the stuffing from 
the parts to be eased, and stitch the lining down 
firmly to the body side ; then pad well round the 
edges of the cavity. 

Begin to sew the remaining edge to the collar, 
using the half-moon needle for the purpose. It will 
be noticed, by turning up the edge of the after- 
wale, that it is stitched to the body side about 
\ in. from the edge, and that all the stitches are 




Fijr. 48.— Collar. 



hidden from the top. The new lining must be sewn 
in the same manner, if neatness is aimed at. Press 
the edge under the afterwale, and alternately pass 
the needle through, pulling each stitch well home 
when made. 

If the collar has been lined with serge, the stuff- 
ing may be worked as desired by using the seat- 
awl, and any unevenness disposed of. Pass the awl 
through the serge into the lump to be removed and 
gently work it in the required direction. Passing 
one hand along the lining will show when evenness 
has been obtained. 

A collar should fit the horse perfectly, or it will 



ToS _^ Saddlerv. 

probably produce either galling or choking. One 
that is too wide, or deeper than it should be, will 
produce galling ; whereas if the collar is too small, 
choking will result. 

When lining a gig collar, it is better to take off 
the lining and make it like new. But when it is a 
question of healing sore shoulders, though many 
put pads near the sores to keep the collar away, 
the most commendable system is to chamber tho 
collar opposite the sore, which can be done as de- 
scribed in the next two paragraphs. 

In the lining opposite the sore part make two 
cross slits, their lengths varying according to the 




Fig. 40.— Panel Saddle. 

extent of the sore. Then damp the leather well, 
and turn up the four points. With a knife scoop a 
big hole in the straw underneath, taking it out to 
a good depth, and making the hollow slant towards 
the sides ; but cut in farther than the leather can 
be turned up, so that there will be no sharp edge 
to the hollow to cause another sore. 

A small collar needle and a long thread with a 
little twist will be needed for stitching. Make some 
stitches from the outside of the collar to draw^ the 
leather lining down deep into the hollow; stitch 
round the edges, and also put several stitches in 
the centre. Some makers put flock under the 



Re-liniNG Collars and Saddles. 109 

stitches inside the hollow. The collar can also bo 
patched up again when the sores are healed. 

Another method of providing for sores, etc., i\i 
as follows : — The stitches which connect the lining 
c (Fig. 48) to the afterwale B are cut, and the wool 
or other material with which it is padded at the 
place touching the injured part is taken out. The 
lining is drawn down to the form of a hollow by 
putting a stitch or two right through the body of 
the collar with a needle. Additional wool may be 
put in above and below the cavity by the use of 
the stuffing-rod. See that the wool does not form 
into lumps, but lies evenly all round the cavity. In 




Fig-. 50.— ■' Swelled " Flap Cab Saddle. 

sewing the lining to the afterwale, use a needle 
and collar twine. A shows the forewale and d the 
cap. 

The dotted lines in Fig. 49 show the parts which 
are likely to cause any injury found on the back or 
withers of the horse. To remedy this, knock out 
the nails round the gullet at f, and loosen the panel 
on the side causing the injury. An opening will be 
found in the back of the panel ; take out the 
padding from where the lining is stained, and pad 
round the cavity as in easing the collar, according 
to the instructions given in the last paragraph. If 
the injury is caused by the part at r chafing, then 



no 



Saddlery 



both sides, marked e and G, must be p?.dded more 
fully. 

Re-lining a saddle is a somewhat more difficult 
job than re-lining a collar. That shown by Fig. 50 
is known as a '' swelled " flap cab saddle. The 
panel (Fig. 51) must first of all be removed. It will 
doubtless be found to be fixed to the flaps with 
copper wire, which must be cut, the best tool for 
the purpose being an old hand-knife made into a 
rough saw by jagging the edge with a chisel. It 
will pass freely between the flap and panel roll and 
sever the wires. Remove all pieces of old wire, 
then cut the quilting stitches on the back of the 




Fiir. 51.— Panel of •• Swelled" Cab Saddle. 



panel. The dotted lines (Fig. 51) show how to cut 
out the new lining. Fold the serge and lay the 
panel on it, then cut as indicated. 

There are two methods of stitching in the new 
lining of a saddle : — (1) By entirely removing all 
the old one, and stitching the new to the facing, as 
in the case of a new panel ; or (2) by cutting the old 
lining near the stitches made in quilting in the roll, 
folding the edge of the new lining, and hiding the 
stitches within the folded edge, as in the case of 
lining a collar. 

The first of the above plans is always adopted in 
the case of best gig saddles. When the lining has 



Re-lining Collars and Saddles. 



Ill 



been stitched in, quilt it all round near the facing, 
to keep the roll in its place. This done, lay it, 
lining side down, on the bench and begin to put 
in the stuffing, using a long flat rule for the pur- 
pose ; fill it firmly on each side as far as the quilting 
reaches. The quilting must next be proceeded 
with, long stitches being formed on the back of the 



Fig. 52,— Straij^ht Awl. 



panel, as shown in Fig. 51, and the lining just 
caught, as shown in Fig. 50. Needles for this work 
should be 4 in. long. 

The proper method is to lay the panel, lining 
down, on the bench, and quilt it from the back. If 
the needle is driven straight through, the stitches 
on the lining will appear uniform. When both 
sides are quilted, the panel must be sewn across at 



112 Saddlery. 

the top, as in Fig. 51, and the rest of the stuffing 
pushed in through the V-cut. Fill this part well, 
and work it out towards the front and back by using 
the seat-awl ; it will then be ready for fixing in 
again. 

No. 22 copper wire will be the best to use. Cut 
sufficient pieces, 4 in. long, then take a straight, 
sharp awl (see Fig. 52), re-open the places in the 
flaps where the old wires were, and put in the now. 
This done, put the panel in the saddle, fix it by two 
nails under the crupper loop, and nail it round the 
gullet with |-in. cut tacks ; then pass the points of 
the wires through the panel close to the roll, cross 
them, and twist up tight. Lastly, cut off the ends, 
but leave \ in. of twisted wire to be bent down into 
the channel. 



13 



CHAPTER XIII. 

WHIPS, HUNTING CROPS, ETC. 

A GOOD whip, properly used and cared for, will last 
for years ; and in this chapter it is proposed first to 
give the chief points to be observed in maintaining 
whips in a suitable condition for the work expected 
of them. 

The varieties of driving whips may be summed 
up under three heads — the bow-top (I'ig. 53), drop- 
thong (Fig. 54), and gig (Fig. 55). 

When whips are not in use, they should not bo 
carelessly thrown into a corner or left in the trap, 
but they should be carefully hung up on a hook, so 
that the stock and thong may retain a perfect 
shape, which is not otherwise possible. 

The mounts should never be cleaned without 
first rolling a piece of stiffish papfer round the stock 
to prevent it becoming soiled by the material used 
in cleaning. Good whiting, free from grit, is un- 
equalled as a polish ; but if the mounts have become 
much tarnished. Monkey Brand soap or one of the 
many metal polishes should be applied with a piece 
of flannel, the polishing being done with a piece of 
soft chamois leather. 

The handle should be sponged occasionally w^th 
a damp sponge, and, should the varnish have be- 
come dull, give it a very thin coat of either white or 
brown hard spirit varnish, w^iich will revive the 
lustre. Stick stocks, such as holly, yew, malacca, 
thorn, lance, and other woods^ may be dried with a 
soft cloth after sponging. 

It is a good plan, when hanging up a whip, to 
make a noose of string or other material, which 
should be first slipped round the stock and then 
II 



114 Saddlerv. 

passed over the hook or nail. In the case of a whip 
with a quilled or bow top, see that the noose 
escapes the part which naturally bends over ; it 
should be placed on a gig whip where the thong is 
bound on to the stock. This will keep the stiffened 
part more erect, and prevent the whalebone inside 
becoming broken or otherwise getting out of shape. 

Solid brass, nickel, or silver mounts will, of 
course, wear all through alike, and those mounts 
which are hard plated will stand a lot of polishing 
before the foundation metal shows through ; but 
mounts which are lightly electro-plated on very 
common metal quickly lose all signs of the silver. 
These should be gently rubbed with a soft chamois, 
and not allowed to tarnish, which always means 
either more violent rubbing or the application of 
some substance to remove it. 

The thongs and keepers should receive an occa- 
sional dressing of tallow, which not only preserves 
them but keeps them pliable. This must be well 
rubbed into the parts with the hands to ensure it 
penetrating into the leather. 

The commonest injuries which happen to whips 
are: A broken keeper either on the thong or the 
stock in the case of the dealer or drop-thong class 
(Fig. 54) ; the stock broken, in or near the bow, in 
the class shown in Fig. 53 ; a broken point to the 
thong, the quills broken where the thong joins the 
handle, or the handle itself broken, in the case of 
gig whips (Fig. 55). 

To repair a broken chape or keeper, first of all 
remove the old one, if it is the keeper on the stock 
which is broken ; if it is that on the thong, cut the 
broken pieces off nearly level with the plaited part. 
Take a piece of white horse-hide, of good quality 
and pliable, and skive this down at each end, leav- 
ing the full substance slightly beyond where the 
binding thread will reach when it is folded end to 
end and placed in position. 



IFn/ps, H'JntixC Crops, etc. 115 



Fig. 53. 



Fi?. 54. 



Y\^ 53._Bow-top, or Career's Whip, 
j^io-' 54 —Drop-thong, or Dealer s 
Whip. Fig. 55.-Gig or Coaching 
Whip. 



Fig. 55. 



ii6 S.innLKRV. 

This skived part must be well waxed by laying 
it on a board or bench, and rubbing a ball of shoe- 
makers' wax down it several times so that a thin 
coat of w^ax covers it. Treat the end, to which it is 
to be fixed, in a similar manner, and, to ensure 
perfect adhesion between the parts, warm them 
gently, place the keeper in position, and press them 
well together with the fingers. 

If there should be any surplus of leather Y>^here 
the edges of the keeper meet, trim it off with a 
sharp knife, and see whether there are any uneven 
places ; if so, put them right before proceeding to 
bind it on. There should be a uniformly even, but 
very slight, taper from the top of the binding to 
the bottom. The full thickness of the leather at 
the top of the stock over the reduced part lower 
down will naturally produce this. 

If the stock should be a brown one, either gut 
or thread, use a beeswaxed thread made of white 
hemp ; if black, then use fine brow^n hemp and 
black wax. Make a long thread by passing the 
strand of hemp, held in the left hand, over a hook, 
bringing it down to the same hand again, repeating 
the operation until there are three strands on each 
side of the hook. See that the three strands on 
one side are quite separate from the others ; hold 
these firmly between the thumb and forefinger of 
the left hand, about eight or nine inches from the 
end, and with the right hand rub this part down the 
thigh of the right leg, releasing the grip of the left 
hand during each stroke. When this part is well 
twisted, repeat with the other half of the thread ; 
draw the wax sharply down the twisted strands 
and along the part round the hook. When suffi- 
ciently waxed, tie a slip loop at one end and pass 
this over the hook. 

Begin binding on the keeper by laying about an 
inch of the other end on it lengthwise, so that the 
first few turns will secure it. By standing away 



Whips, Hunting Crops, etc. 



117 



from the liook the full length of the thread, and 
holding the stock in a horizontal position, the 
thread can be wound tightly and evenly on. 

The method of binding on a keeper for splicing 
a stock is fully explained by Figs. 56, 57, and 58. 
The method of starting the binding is shown in Fig. 
56, and Fig. 57 shows how to finish it off securely. 



Fi^, 56. Fig. 57. Figf. 58. 

Figs. 56 to 58.— Methods of Splicing Broken Stock of 
Whip Stock. 

Of course, the start and finish of the thread 
should lie perfectly hidden beneath the coils, but 
in order to illustrate the method clearly they are 
shown in the diagrams. Let each coil lie perfectly 
close to the preceding one, and in finishing off, as 
in Fig. 57, drop down sufficient slack, and wind the 
end of the thread back towards that already wound, 
passing it under the last turn. Then, by con- 



r 



ii8 Saddlery. 

tinning the original, the other unwinds, and a 
portion of the thread lies under the last few coils. 
Pull the slack well home and cut it off. 

Lay the bound part on a hard, level board, and 
with another piece of hard wood roll it backwards 
and forwards, using plenty of pressure ; this will 
give it a nice smooth finish. For better appearance 
still, a little spirit varnish may be put on. 

Now proceed to put thong and stock together. 
The method of doing this is fully explained by Fig. 
59. Pass the loop at the end of the thong over the 
keeper on the stock, then take the point of the 
former and pass it through the latter and draw it 
well home ; the two parts will then be as shown in 
Fig. 54. ^ 

A fresh piece of whipcord is generally put on a 
thong in a very bungling fashion, and not always 
securely. The proper way to do this is shown in 
Figs. 60 and 61. Unbraid the end of the thong and 
separate it as in Fig. 60. Lay the cord between the 
four ends — two on each side of it — with sufficient 
left for making the loop. Fold over the ends of the 
thong, and pass the end of the cord round them and * 
under the cord as in Fig. 61. Draw down tightly 
by the knotted end of lash, and trim off the surplus 
not too closely ; this will be found not only a neat 
but a secure w^ay. 

The knots in the points of lashes prevent the 
lash ravelling away quickly, and the neatest 
method of forming them is to separate one strand*" J 
of the cord from the other two, and tie this over 
at intervals, twisting it into its place again in the 
spaces between the knots. 

Whips of the class shown in Fig. 53 generally 
suffer at the part forming the bow, and to repair 
these place a piece of thin whalebone about 1^ in. 
long on each side of the whip, and bind these to it. \ 
Twisted points, made of raw hide dressed in oil, 
are always put on this class of v/hip, and the whip- 



Whips, Hunting Crops, etc. 



119 



cord point fixed to these. Fig. 62 showa the way to 
put them on. 





Fi?. 59. — Method of Joining 
Thong and Stock of Drop- 
thong Whip. 



Fig. CO. — Method 
of Fixing Silk or 
Cord Lash to End 
of Whip Thong. 



In the case of a gig whip (Fig. 55) having a 
broken thong requiring a new point, it may be said 
that such points are madfi in various lengths, and 



I20 



Saddlery. 



differ in thickness, so that it will be necessary to 
choose one of suitable substance and length to 
match the old thong. The number of strands con- 
stituting the plait carries from four to eight ; and 
the strength is generally in proportion to the num- 
ber of strands, but the process of putting on is the 
same with all. 

If the old ihong is not already unplaited, pro- 
ceed first to do this for about li in., and see that 





Fig. (U.— Methol of Fixii.-- 
Silk or Cord Lash to Li-d 
of Whip Thong. 



Fig. G2.— Method of Fixing 
Twisted Gut or Hide 
Point to Carter's Whip. 



the new point is opened about the same length. 
Figs. 63, 64, and 65, which show a four-plait in each 
case, give the method of fixing them together. The 
separated ends are put between each other, as in 
Fig. 63, and the ends are brought down and held 
close to the part they should lie on. Take the 
strand first \vhich is farthest open, and pass it over 
the other three, as in Fig. 61. With a pair of flat- 
mouthed pliers pull this as tight as possible. Tako 



JFn/ps, Hunting Crops^ etc. 



121 



one of the others which comes best into position, 
and, when all have been turned through and pulled 
well home, treat those on the other part in the 
same manner. 

The joint will now appear as in Fig. 65, and it 
will be impossible to pull it asunder, because the 
greater the tension the tighter will be the grip on 




Fig. 63. 
Figs. 63 and 64. 




-Method of Joining New Plaited Point to 
Old Whip Thong. 



the strands, separately and collectively. The pro- 
jecting ends must be trimmed off, but not quite 
close to the thong now formed ; lay the joint on a 
level board and roll it as described previously for 
putting a keeper on a drop-thong whip. 

Carelessness in leaving the whip in the socket, 
whilst running the trap into the coach-house, is 



122 Saddlery. 

generally the cause of broken quills. For repair- 
ing, get a few good goose-quills and slit them with 
a knife into halves. Take off the thread round the 
old thong, and pass one or two half quills down 
inside the old ones. Some people use steel pens 
instead of quills, but generally they are too short 
to make a satisfactory job. Having fixed the new 
support, bind up again, following the plan adopted 



Fig. 65.— Method of Joining New Plaited Point to Old 
Whip Thong. 

when the thong was new, and which is easily found 
out by carefully noting the way in which the old 
thread comes off. Use good black sewing thread 
for these repairs, and applj^ a little spirit varnish 
as a dressing to protect and brighten it. 

Another injury to this class of whips is a broken 
stock, which usually occurs towards the top and 
at one of the knots. First trim off with a knife any 
knots in close proximity to the breakage, and before 
paring down for the splice place the broken parts 



Whips, Hunting Crops, etc. 123 

together and endeavour to ascertain the natural 
fall of the whip, or the way when it is spliced which 
will give to it the best appearance. 

Reduce the wood so that it can be joined as 
shown in Fig. 56, using for this purpose, besides 
the knife, a moderately fine wood rasp, which 
should also be used on the part to be covered by 
the thread. Use good glue in uniting the parts 
together, and when firmly set bind with a thread 
of suitable size and colour. The method of binding 
has already been explained in the instructions for 
fixing on a new keeper to a drop-thong whip. 

The joint may be given greater strength by 
puttirig a pin through each end of it, as indicated 
by the dotted lines in Fig. 56 ; this prevents the 
parts drawing asunder. Make the holes with an 
Archimedean or other small drill. 

The mounts at the bottom of a whip handle 
sometimes get loose or come oft'. These can be 
refixed by scraping all the old resin out of the 
mount and cleaning off that clinging to the wood, 
and then partly filling the mount with crushed 
fresh resin, gently warming it until it becomes 
liquid, pressing it on to the handle again, and 
allowing it to cool. 

Whip lashes are generally plaited with four 
tapei'ing leather ends, round a tapering "heart.'' 
The plaiting can be done with any even number of 
ends, and is termed "cross-pointing." If, how- 
ever, four ends otAy are worked, and no "heart," 
the result is the same as a sennit made with four 
ends, explained in the next paragraph. This 
method is the quickest where two can work to- 
gether, but for single-handed work another method 
will be found easier. 

For plaiting square sennit having four ends, 
take four ends of gaskin, and tie them to a hook in 
a post. Take two ends, and cross them beneath 
the hook. Hold these two ends out, then cross the 



124 Saddlery. 

two others beneath them. Thus proceed to cross 
the two ends alternately, as indicated in Fig. 66, 
where A and B are shown in the act of being crossed 
between c and d. Pull each tight, and hammer 
square when complete. 

Eight-stranded square sennit is shown partly 
completed in Fig. 67, w^hich explains the position 
of the 8 ends during the work. Begin by crossing 
the 2 centre strands — say right over left — then take 
the outside right strand, pass it round at the back 
of the rest and up between the strands on the left, 




C 

Fig. 66. — Plaiting Four-strand _d Square Sennit. 

bringing it over in front to its own side again ; then 
take the outer strand on the left side, and bring 
it up between those on the right, and back to its 
own side again. In the figure, strand 4 was 
taken from above 1 and passed up between 
6 a,nd 7, and brought back over 5 to its 
own side as shown. Strand 8 will be next taken 
and passed up between 2 and 3, then brought back 
over 4 to x. This done, each opposite face of the 
sennit will appear the same. In working, re- 
member to keep the same face always uppermost ; 
the end A must, of course, be secured to something 
at a convenient height. 



JV//JPS, Hunting Crops, etc. 



12 



The following methods of cross-pointing are re- 
commended for making whip lashes. The methods 
of plaiting square sennit, shown by Figs. QQ and 67, 
may be useful on occasion, but the whip maker is 
more concerned with plaits that have cores or 
hearts. However, Fig. 68 shows a coreless plait 
popular in the trade. 

In Fig. 68, the end c was taken from o, passed 




Fi;j. 0)1. — Pirating Eiglit-stranded Square Sennit. 

back to the left, then forward between a and b, and 
crossed over to its present position, c, on the right. 
The end a will next be passed back to the right, 
forward between c and d, and crossed over to the 
left, as shown by the dotted line, x. 

In Fig. 69 the plait is precisely the same as in 
Fig. 68, only round a heart. The end c was taken 
from 0, passed round to the left at the back of the 
heart, and brought forward between a and b, then 



126 



S.IDDLERV. 



crossed over in front of the heart to its present 
position. A next goes round the back of the heart, 
and forward between c and d, and across in front 
of the heart, to x. When the tapered end of the 
heart is reached the process will be as explained 
before (Fig. 68). 

When about 2 in. from the end of the lash insert 
a piece of whip-cord, as w p (Fig. 68), pull through 
one-third of its length, then taper the leather ends, 
A and D, off to about 1 in. in length ; proceed as 
before, but whenever A or d are worked, carry its 




Fig. 63.— Plaiting Whip Lasli without Heart. 



accompanying whip-cord end with it till A and d run 
out, then taper b and c off in the same way, and 
work with four ends as before, two being leather 
and two whip-cord ; when b and c run out " lay up '^ 
the whip-cord tight, and splice the shorter end into 
the longer. 

There are few things more difficult to find out 
for one's self, perhaps, than how to work buttons, 
collars, and ferrules on whips, hunting crops, and 
walking-sticks. Undoing the work is of little avail 
except to those who have some knowledge of it ; 
this plan may then be profitably employed in dis- 



JF///PS, Hunting Crops, 



ETC. 



127 



covering the method of working any new pattern 
which one may come across. 

The material used for working buttons and fer- 
rules on whips is generally gut, similar to violin 
strings but not of such good quality. For ferrules 
on walking-sticks silver wire is ussd. This varies 
in price according to the gauge. Any size up to 
No. 22 B.w.G. is 3s. Id. per oz. ; from No. 23 to 25 
the price is 3s. 3d. ; and from No. 26 to 30, 3s. 6cf 




Figr. 69.— Plaiting Whip Lash with Heart. 



per oz. As a guide, it may be mentioned that 
about 27 ft. of No. 22 b.w.g. weighs 1 oz. 

As the groundwork is the same, whatever the 
pattern may be, it will be seen that when the 
manner of doing this is once mastered any pattern, 
however elaborate, can be worked by carefully ob- 
serving the course of each strand and making a 
complete record of the manner in which the strand, 
in course of manipulation, passes through its coun- 
terpart in forming the ferrule. By adopting this 
method a complete guide for future reference will 
be obtained which, if closely followed, will furnish 



128 Saddlery. 

the means for carrying out the work in a satis- 
factory manner. 

In taking one of these ferrules to pieces, a com- 
mencement should be made at the finished end ; 
therefore, in making a record of each course taken 
by the strand which has been interwoven to form 
a ferrule or collar, begin at the bottom of a sheet of 
paper and work upwards ; there is then a straight- 
forward guide in attempting to work a similar pat- 
tern. Be careful to mark down every change made 
when passing from one stage to another ; the 
slightest error will cause endless trouble and pre- 
vent a satisfactory completion. If, being satisfied 




Fig-. 70. — Beg-inning- Groundwork or Mesh. 



that the guide is correct, it is found that the pattern 
will not come right, it is certain that a mistake has 
been made in reworking it ; at once try to find out 
where the mistake exists, and rectify it. The work 
must be undone to this point, the mistake remedied, 
and another attempt made. 

There is no work in which the advice to " make 
haste slowly " could be more usefully given than to 
the tyro at this work. The greater his diligence, 
the sooner will his aim be accomplished ; but haste 
and carelessness will inevitably lead to failure. 

By referring to Fig. 70, the first portion of the 
groimdwork or mesh will be seen. Begin at 1, and 



Whips, Huntixg CkoPs, Etc. 



129 



bring the cord round at 2 ; it is then carried round 
again, and brought under the thumb at 3. Pass it 
round, and bring it midway at 4, then over the top 
and up at 5. Here it is passed under the second 




ot Me^h. 



turn which was made, carried over the fourth at 6, 
under the first at 7, and over the third at 8. It is 
then brought round and passed to the left of 4 and 
over to the left of 6. Pass it under the next cross 
strand, and bring it up outside of 5 ; carry it over 




72.— Mesh Completed. 



the first strand back, then under one, over two, 
under one, over one ; now turn again when the 
stage shown in Fig. 71 is reached. 

The cord in its course is here seen to pass over 
the first, then under one, over one. In continuing, 



J30 



Saddlery. 



it passes over the next two, then over one, under 
one. Turn again, and pass it under one and over 
the next alternately, when the mesh will be com- 
pleted. This is shown in Fig. 72. 




fir 



Fig-. 73. — Ferrule Complete. 

The second course is then begun. There is no 
difficulty now in completing the ferrule, as the cord 
or wire is simply passed under and over to corre- 
spond with the mesh. Always keep to the right of 
the start— to pass beyond this throws out the 
pattern. 




Fig. 74.— Mesh on Single Turk's Head. 

The finished ferrule shown in Fig. 73 has three 
courses. There is no limit to the number which 
can be made, provided the mesh is slack enough to 
allow a greater number being passed through it. 



*•- 



Whips, Bunting Crops, etc. 



131 



If the ferrule is found to be too loose, an 
additional course will tighten it; but this might 
not always prove satisfactory, especially if a given 
number of strands in each direction is desired. 




Fig. 75.— Single Turk's Head Completed. 

The length of ferrule must also be considered at 
the commencement, and this is decided by the 
number of turns in each direction of the mesh. 
There is no limit whatever to its length. 

Fig. 74 shows the groundwork of a very simple 




Fig. 76.— Raised Turk's Head. 

collar used on dog-whips and some hunting crops. 
This is commonly called a " Turk's head." It gener- 
ally has several courses or strands. Fig. 75 shows 
five. Fig. 76 is a "raised Turk's head.'' This is 
formed by working a small one on the stick first, 



132 



Saddlery. 



and then working another over it, carrying it 
beyond each end of the first button, so that the 
raised part is in the centre. 




Fig. 77.— Small Button for Huntino- Crop. 

Small buttons for finishing the ends when bind- 
ing on the keeps of hunting crops are shown in 
Figs. 77 and 78. The method of working these is 
given in Fig. 79. The cord is passed once round 
the stock, and in its next course threaded through 
it to form the twist. It is then kept to the right of 




Fig. 78. — Four-strand Button 
for Hunting Crop. 



Fig. 79.— Beginning 
Small Button. 



the start and made to follow the direction of this 
as many times as desired. Fig. 77 shows a button 
formed with two courses and Fig. 78 one in which 
there are four courses. 



33 



CHAPTER XIV. 

SET OF GIG HARNESS. 



The making of gig harness is. not strictly the work 
of a saddler, though, of course, the country trades- 
man has often to do both harness and saddle mak- 
ing. The two branches of the trade must be 
distinguished between, however, and whilst this 
handbook is devoted chiefly to saddlery there is 
a companion volume dealing v/ith nothing but 
harness making. Considerations of space forbade 
the inclusion in that volume of a chapter on mak- 




Fig-. 81. — Drop, or Breast 
Fig. 80.— Xose-bancl. plate Ornament. 

ing gig harness, and as the work is of a superior 
kind, and is likely to fall to the lot of the majority 
of saddle makers in country shops, there need be 
no apology for inserting such a chapter here. 

The bridle of gig harness is made as for a van 
harness (see the companion volume), but the work 
is finer and the material better ; the nose-band is 
often cut in some fancy wavy pattern, and the work 
is much finer. 

Sometimes the nose-band (Fig. 80) is rounded 
by placing a piece of leather or card underneath ; 
when it is stuffed only the outer row is, as a rule, 
stitched through both top and lining, the first 
ornamental rows or patterns being stitched through 
one thickness only at the top part. The winkers 
a.re also made smaller and stitched finer with two 
inner rows close together. 



134 Saddlery. 

A drop (Fig. 81) is often made with some fancy 
ornament to run down the face from the buckle or 
head-piece ; it must be 1 ft. 1 in. long, with a 
fancy pattern cut at the hanging end where the 
ornament is fastened. The drop may be made of 
patent leather, lined and stitched all round with 
two fine rows of black linen thread. Finish it 
neatly and make a hole in the point for fastening 
the buckle on the head under the winker strap. 
If preferred, a loop for it can be put on the fore- 
head band, or a runner may be used to keep it 
and the winker strap together at the top below the 
buckle. The drop and w^inker strap can also be 
made in one by leaving an opening in the drop 
5 in. from the point for the winker strap to pass ; 
the last is made round like a bearing rein with a 
small cord inside. 

The winker strap also is sometimes lined and 
stitched fine with two rows, or it may be orna- 
mented with stitching without lining, or again with 
rounded slits. In making the best harness, a piece 
is put along the centre of the head-piece to form 
a loop for the winker strap point, and runs down 
on each side as far as the slit, being raised in the 
centre as much as possible, and stitched very fine ; 
all this is for the sake of strength and ornament. 
With bradoon fittings, however, this piece is 
turned outwards at each end, and a chape is made 
to go over and fasten the eyelet for the hook of the 
bradoon swivel chain (Fig. 82) ; or a small brass 
dee is used to fasten the small straps by which the 
swivels hang, because with bradoon fittings no 
swivels are put to the throatlash. These fittings 
are made by stitching two straps, about 6 in. long, 
underneath the head-piece right at the top of the 
slit ; make very fine stitches on the head-piece, 
and let the straps hang down inside the cheek. 
Run the bearing rein through the swivels and down 
through the bit rings to buckle in these straps at 



Si:t of Gig Harness. 



135 



each side. Thus a bearing rein with bradoon does 
not need billets, but at the round part must be 
made about 1 ft. 1 in. longer than an ordinary- 
bearing rein. 

The winkers are frequently made with orna- 
ments; for adjusting them, holes must be cut 
throug'h the winker plate and the leather with a 
fine hard steel punch. The legs of the ornament 
must be put into these holes and then cut short 
as close to the leather as possible underneath ; 
then flatten the points well down. These direc- 
tions and what is said in " Harness Making " on 
van harness will suffice for the making of the 
bridle 

The instructions regarding collar making will 
apply, in general, to all, but gig collars must 




Fi,!?, 82. — Bradoon Chain. 



always be made of patent leather. The forewale 
is always lined with calico to prevent the leather 
cracking, and must be turned down for about 1| 
in., or altogether for 3^ in. For stuffing, employ 
a fine collar iron. It is also well to have some- 
what shorter wisps than for cart or van collars ; 
see carefully that they join properly. 

Cut the lining out of the best basil leather and 
put it in place while stitching the forewale, making 
the collar lighter and of better shape than the 
heavy types. Let the lining and flock be made 
quite smooth, free from lumps or wrinkles. The 
patent leather side-piece is bound as described, 
but a paper pattern can be cut in one piece all 
round so that no housing will be needed ; it is 
joined at the bottom under the throat, and is 
called " London top." If in two parts, join it at 



1^6 Saddlery, 

top and bottom, like a van collar, the top piece and 
housing being made likewise, but with finer 
stitches. The width of the collar at the widest 
part is 8 in. to 10 in., as required by the neck, 
the length being fixed on the same principle. 
Black basil may be employed for lining, or instead, 
black the lining when finished with soda and iron 
dye, afterwards rubbing it with a ball of tallow 
and the palm of the hand to " kill " the dye. 

For the gig saddle (Fig. 83) obtain a tree (Fig. 
84) 4 in. to 4^ in. broad at the top (they are often 
smaller), put on it a thin sheet-iron seat plate, 
shaped like a saddle seat, nail it against the cantle 
at the back with two or three tacks, and at the 
front or gullet with a short piece of leather under- 
neath to raise it a little. Then cut a piece of thin 
basil a little larger than the plate. Shave all the 
edges thin, damp and paste it over the seat, and 
turn it down round the edges at the sides and over 
the cantle as well as in front ; this prevents the 
leather above being rotted by the rust from the 
iron seat. 

Now cut a piece of thin pliable patent leather 
slightly larger than the seat and sufficiently long 
in front to be nailed underneath, and about \ in. 
above the cantle. Having damped it, tack it down 
tight to the tree and leave it there to dry. 

The skirts (Fig. 85) are now cut; these are the 
other parts of a gig saddle which cover the portion 
through which the backhand passes. Make them 
of stiff patent leather to reach about | in. over the 
tree at each side and about 1 in. below the bottom 
of the tree where the backhand runs, but not cov- 
ering the points. These three sides must be cut 
straight, and the top level with the edge of the 
seat plate in front and of the same shape as it is 
in the narrow part, running downwards to ter- 
minate in a rising point and rounding upwards just 
by the root of the cantle. Cut both skirts exactly 



Set of Gig Harness. 



137 



alike, quite square with the tree v/hen in place on 
tlie seat. 

Eun the race compass along the edges and bot- 
tom of i\iQ skirts, about I in. from the edge, and 
then make another groove i in. inside that all 
round the four sides and at the top, but do not let 
the top groove run farther than the points of the 
side grooves ; all will then meet at a terminal 
point. A piece of plain leather must now be cut 
to reach about half-way up the skirt from the 




Flu:. 86. 



Fio-. 85. 



Fig-. S3. 

Fig-. S3.— Gig Saddle. Fig. 84.— Gig Saddle Tree. 
Fig. 85.— Gig Saddle Skirt. Fig. 86.— Stand Hook. 

bottom, the upper part being shaved thin, with 
grooves pricked all round, and the inner groove 
stitched all along through the top and under-piece. 
Then stitch the bottom line across and over th« 
corner at each end, twelve per inch, and trim and 
polish the edges. Then skive a little along the 
top edge and mark out the seat along the top edge 
of the skirt from end to end, having a, piece of 
patent thin welt about 1 in. longer at each end 
than the skirt to run along the edge at the top. 
Run a stitch over the welt and skirt along the 
top, after doubling the welt by turning it down 
along the centre. Along the mark cut the seat, 



13S Saddlery. 

and mark this at the place where the skirt is first 
to be joined and at the other end ; thus, aiter 
stitching it will be in its proper position. 

The seat and skirt may now be back-stitched 
together, the welt being kept in the centre of the 
joint ; use a pointed needle and linen thread and 
a thimble. Work both sides in the same way and 
rub down the joint underneath. Cut a piece of 
patent leather for the back of the cantle \ in. 
longer all round, and make two punch holes and a 
slit for it to pass over the crupper loop at the 
bottom, one part of it running through the centre 
of the loop inside. Nail that piece down under the 
back of the tree and drive two nails into it at the 
centre of the crupper loop. Cut it at the sides to 
meet the seat at the edge of the cantle, and then, 
after damping the seat and placing it in position, 
tack the seat at the back-piece together all round 
the cantle close to the wood, using a pointed needle 
and thread. 

Cut round the stitches with the edge tool, 
leaving enough margin to bind the edges., and then 
cut out a thin piece of patent leather binding suffi- 
ciently long to go round and with 1 in. extra at 
each end. Lay it on tightly over the edge and 
stitch fine with double thread black linen, begin- 
ning work right at the bottom at the root of the 
cantle and finishing on the other side at the 
bottom. 

Nail the front part of the seat neatly with |-in. 
tacks just under the edge of the tree and cut two 
holes for terret sockets with the brace, one on 
each side of the tree in front, just by the side of 
the groove. Raise the skirt out of the way while 
working, and make another hole opposite those 
just made in the skirt. Having inserted the 
sockets from below, nail them securely and then 
cut a hole through the seat opposite the hole in 
the tree through which the stand hook (Fig. 86) 



Set gf Gig Harness. 



139 



is put. It is taken for granted that the skirt is 
made perfectly square, but the corners may be 
rounded ; whatever the shape, the method of work 
is always the same. 

The saddle flaps (Fig. 87) must now be made ; 
they should be about 1 ft. 8 in. long in front, and 
1 ft. 9 J in. at back, and for a 4-in. tree must be 
4| in. wide at the top. Cut them straight down 
to the bottom, gradually narrowing until 2 in. from 
the base, where they taper in a rounded form tD 



Fig-. 87. Fig-. 83. 

Fig. 87.— Gig Flap Showing Cuts. Fig. 88.— Hame Tug 

with Safe. 

about If in. Cut a groove along the sides and 
bottom a little farther than I in. from the edge, 
and another \ in. inside it; do not cut the last 
quite to the bottom, however, but with the race 
make a half circle from corner to corner at the 
bottom and join the middle grooves to the edge of 
this. Now cut out the lining from uncurried brown 
belly, paste the lining on the flaps and let them 
dry. Prick them, double-stitch twelve per inch, 
all but the half circle and the cross line at the 
bottom. 

The edges can now be finished and well pol- 
ished ; make them as level as possible, but do not 



140 Saddlery. 

round them as much as the edge of a trace or 
backband, merely edging the patent leather top. 
From this trim them level inwards below so that 
the flaps lie close to the panel facing. The longer 
side point must reach close to the crupper loop 
underneath the tree ; mark this therefore. The 
other side at the front must be above the tree, but 
if it is too high the flap will be drawn too much 
forwards, and if too low it will start backwards ; 
make sure that it is quite square with the tree. 

A piece must be cut out at the top to fit the 
flap and to keep it in position as regards the point 
at each side. Opposite the groove in the tree 
mark a line across the flap, and from the back end 
of the line to wdthin an inch of the outer top back 
edge make a slanting cut. Now from the front 
end of the mark run a slanting cut upwards to 
within an inch of the front edge ; the middle part 
must be cut square to the same width as the 
groove, and \\ in. long from the line. Shave the 
end of the piece thin and also the inner sides of 
the slanting cuts underneath. 

The saddle flaps can now be put in their places, 
hind point below and front point above the tree, 
the middle cut entering the groove. Nail the iDoint 
behind close to the loop, then the front under the 
skirt and the middle cut in the groove. Make sure 
that the flap points are at equal distances from 
the edge of the tree, and perfectly square to each 
other and the tree. 

There now remains a space, between the ends 
of the flaps at the gullet in front, which must be 
filled, and for this purpose a piece of patent leather 
is cut to the required length. If necessary, line it 
so as to obtain the same thickness as the flaps, 
and stitch the outer line in the same way as the 
flaps along the outside. Thin the inner side all 
along and make a punch hole a little below the 
junction point of the skirt and the seat on each 



S/^T OF Gig Harness. 141 

side. Put it in place, by measure central between 
the two holes which cut at abou£ half the width 
of the leather. Shave it thin from that line in- 
wards, letting it approach close enough to the tree 
in front to be in a straight line with the flaps. 
Make a slit running from the two punch holes 
towards the inside, and nail the centre part under 
the tree all round the gullet. Raise each side of 
the lower part above the tree — from the punch 
hole downwards — under the skirt to meet the 
points of the flaps. Bring them together quite 
tight and nail them to the tree ; if the inner side 
happens to cover the terret hole it must be cut. 

A stitch is now made with copper wire from the 
point of the flap to the point of the gullet piece 
underneath, and is tightly twisted to draw the 
edges together. Tack the front of the skirts 
square down on the flaps and stitch the outer line 
left from top to bottom on each side through both 
skirts and flaps. The flap should project beyond 
the side of the skirt for about | in. Now place 
a piece of thick leather under the edge of 
the skirt behind, to make it level with the rest 
of the face. As the flaps are nailed under 
the tree they fall below the surface during 
the operation of stitching. Add enough to 
raise them and stitch the skirts down again from 
behind the crupper loop to the lower corner of the 
skirt ; trim and black this piece afterwards by the 
edge of the skirt. (Fig. 88 shows the hame tug). 

The flaps may be cut like the skirts of another 
pattern, swelling them at both sides and rounding 
them at the bottom ; in this case the skirts must 
be rounded to match. Nail a piece of thin leather 
on the side of the crupper loop, twist it round 
from end to end, and drive a nail in the other side, 
and then two tough nails through the tree at both 
the top front corners of the flaps, and one on each 
side through the point of the cantle, binding at 



142 Saddlery. 

the root of the cantle behind. Clinch the front 
nails under the tree and cut the hind ones slanting 
about half length before driving them into the 
tree. 

To make the girth, work as explained in the 
companion handbook, but let the stitches be finer ; 
the lay may have to be put all along the girth, 
this being narrowed from the last loop to the top, 
about half the width of the front part and the 
edges being shaved to bring the lay close to the 
body. The strap may also be shaved, lined, and 
edged, the top part being rounded ; fill it along 
the middle and put on the wide piece at the top 
to fasten to the flap of patent leather. Then stitch 
it round the edges, narrowing it at the bottom to 
the same width as the strap, the under-part of this 
being placed under and the other above it for 
stitching ; finish the girth, strap, and loops, 
neatly. After placing them between the flap and 
the lining, stitch along the half circle with strong 
thread. 

The panel should be made exactly like the 
other, but with a paper facing ; then stitch it 
finer with patent facing cover and quilt it closer 
and finer than for the van panel. To adjust it, 
nail it round the gullet and at the crupper loop 
and stitch it v/ith wire. 

The traces (Fig. 89) must be cut 5 ft. 9 in. to 
6 ft. long by \\ in. wide, the top part at one end 
being rounded and the corners only at the other 
end. As ornament outside the stitches, with the 
hot screw crease make a row of creasing near the 
edge, then make another row of creasing inside 
that, and a third row a little more than J in. 
inside. Cross the inner rows neatly about 5 in. 
from the square end and 1 ft. 4 in. from the other 
or holed end. Prick the two inner row^s, eight 
to thirteen per inch, according to the quality of 
harness, but be sure to reverse the two outward 



Set of Gig Harness. 143 

pieces, placing the stronger against the weaker 
end. Line them level all along, adding an extra 
piece about 6 in. long, with the inner end shaved 
at the square end for fastening the trace to the 
trap ; tack or paste them down and stitch along 
the four inner rows. 

Now dip the trace in water just for a minute 
and level the stitches by rubbing them on the 
underside with the handle of the hammer ; an old 
flat iron without a handle is very good for this 
work. 

The trace is now placed in the clamp, which 
must be held between the knees, and the edges 
are trimmed round with the spokeshave down to 
the line outside the stitches and to the same depth 
on the other side. Some harness makers draw the 
spoke towards them, others push it outwards, but 



Fig. 89.— Gig Trace. 

this is a mere matter of choice. Scrape and smooth 
with glasspaper, black, and polish well as directed. 
Cut two holes in the square end, one 1 in. from 
the end and the other \\ in. farther in ; slit the 
piece between them by making two cuts, one on 
each side of the holes, round the edges a little, 
and black the opening inside and finish. 

At the other end four holes must now be 
punched for the buckles, the first 4 in. from the 
point, and the others 2^ in. from each other. Cut 
a little in front of each hole out of the leather 
underneath, either with punch or hand knife ; if 
this were not done, the point of the tongue, which 
goes slanting into the hole, might tear the 
material. Holes should always be punched big 
enough, and are much better too large than too 
small. Both traces must of course be made alike. 



J 



144 . Saddlery. 

The hame tug (Fig. 88) fastens the trace to the 
hames, and is to be made as follows: — For a 1^-in. 
buckle, the tug should be cut 1 ft. 4 in. by if in., 
with a piece for the centre 10| in. long. Turn 
down the tug pieces in the centre, making both 
ends of the same length, and turn down the other 
piece level to form a chape for the buckle as far 
as it will reach at the short turning. Now make 
a punch hole about | in. from the bend through 
both lining and cover to form a chape for the 
buckle. Open the punch-hole to the front by 
making a cut on each side, and shave a little 
inside the hole in the lining so that the buckle 
can go close to the bend. 

Next slightly round the corners of the top part 
of the outer long piece, and as the tug is 8 in. 
long when doubled, the loop to be put on measur- 
ing 4 in., make a mark 4| in. from the bend at 
each side, the middle piece being in its place. 
Now through the three leathers run an awl down 
each side at the marks, so that there will be a 
mark on both sides above and below. 

Open out the tug and cut | in. from both sides, 
mark to mark ; when the tug is bent, see that the 
cuts on each side are square with each other and 
the opposite cuts. From the mark in the lining 
now cut I in. on each side as far asi the point 
and shave this thin. The fore part of the tug 
will now be of the same width as the buckle, and 
the other part -4- in. wider; thus the hind part 
will have a full neat appearance and the clip be 
covered when put in. Crease a line near the edge 
all round the wide part as was done for the traces, 
and a second line not far from it ; then put a 
third line \ in. inside that round the ends as well, 
being careful to keep the shape in the second line 
of the turning in the corners. 

Prick the two inner lines the same as the trace 
and shave a little on the edges of the wide parts 



Set of Gig Harness. 45 

on each side both above and below. Stitch all 
the inner line through the single leather and about 
I in. in the outer line of stitching at the centre of 
the point, so as to produce the appearance of 
stitching all round when the leather is put above 
the clips. Now make a groove exactly \ in. from 
the edge on the lower side of the narrow part, 
from the beginning of the cut to both sides of the 
buckle, for stitching the loop. Let the last be 
4 in. long, and wide enough for the trace to enter 
and meet in the centre. 

Use strong double-waxed thread for the loop, 
blind-stitching it on the last side, and make two 
strong cross stitches on each side of the buckle. 
Make this part neat in appearance and crease the 
loop, checking it to match the winker and shaft 
tugs. 

With the prongs fix the clip in the draft of the 
hames and push it inside with one prong on each 
side of the middle piece. Mark the last at the 
place where the holes are to be cut for the rivets. 
Remove it and punch the holes, then put it back 
again until all the holes are opposite. Place the 
clip in the vice as far as its neck, tighten it down 
close to the leather, and rivet it ; then cut the 
rivets to length in the vice with a cold chisel. 
Rivet them down well as smoothly as possible on 
the top s.ide. 

The upper and lower part of the tug leather 
must now be turned down over the clip, then 
tacked at each side and neatly stitched. Join the 
stitches on at each side, with the few cross stitches 
made over the clip at the end. Then having neatly 
finished the edges, run a single hot crease along 
the outer line of the crease made outside the 
stitches ; repeat this operation with the outer line 
on the traces, making both tugs the same. 

A safe is often put under the hame tug, in 
which case the top layer of the tug need not be 



146 Saddlery. 

cut to go all along both sides, but may reach 
about 3 in. over the buckle underneath, and exactly 
the same on the upper side as if there were no 
safe. The lining also must be the same, right 
over the buckle and for attaching to the clip. The 
inner row of the wide part must be stitched like 
the other, with the cross stitches at the point ; 
the buckle can now be placed in position and the 
chape turned down as though for stitching. 

Place the buckle end of the tug on the leather 
intended for the safe, allowing it to pass a little 
more than \ in. beyond the end of the buckle and 
flush with the other end of the tug ; thus, it serves 
the purpose of the turn-down part in the other 
method. Cut it all round the buckle, having first 
marked it for a little more than | in., and then 
taper it in a straight line on each side of the 
buckle, beginning at the lower corner and bringing 
it to the same width as the tug at the other end. 
Make a round hole opposite the tongue of the 
buckle for the trace ; its diameter should equal 
the width of the buckle. 

Another piece, of identical form, is now cut, 
made from light leather like the first. Having 
slightly shaved the edges and the edge of the 
round hole in each piece, make an outer row of 
creasing near the edge around the hole and other 
edges. Another row must now be made close by, 
and one piece placed on the other, to act as a 
lining ; prick the inner row very fine, and stitch 
the pieces together, giving the edges a neat finish. 
The safe being placed in position, stitch the loop 
as for the other style, but, instead of having sunk 
stitches, the safe should be stitched coarse from 
underneath ; attach the hame clip at the other end 
and stitch it and finish. 

When placing the loop on, and also afterwards, 
be careful to keep the safe in the centre. Some 
makers place the prongs of the clip one on each 



Set of Gig Harness. 147 

side of the inner part of the two leathers of the 
safe. Then the safe must be made in the same 
manner and stitched on both sides as far as the 
loop end farther from the buckle. After fastening 
and riveting the clip, stitch the other part on both 
sides and then the top lay through them both. 

The backhand must be 8 ft. 2 in. long, the strap 
end 1 ft. 6 in., and the centre 3 ft. 3 in., the 
remainder being for girth. Make four rows all 
along, crossing the lines at each end of the middle 
part and making a line outside the stitches as in 
traces. Stitch about twelve per inch, and add 
three loops, but instead of stitching them with 
backhand, do so when the latter is finished. Run 
a hot creas»e over the outer line and finish the 
backhand. Punch holes in the same manner, and 
cut their edges a little for the shaft tug on the 
lower side. 

The shaft tugs are made on the same principle 
as the cab tugs (see the companion volume), but 
are a little smaller and finer to match the back- 
band ; this and the tugs are \\ in. wide. Safes are 
sometimes placed under the shaft-tug buckles as 
well as on hame tugs, and a hole is cut for the 
backhand as for the trace in the safe. This should 
be in one piece with the outer lay of the tug, 
overlapping just at the centre of the back, the 
safe running up from under the buckle. A paper 
pattern of the entire piece will save much waste. 

The crupper is made in a similar style but 
lighter, the billet being 1 in. wide as a maxi- 
mum, and the loop \\ in. The billet and body, 
however, are often lined, the edges being 
shaved even and the billet stuffed and rounded 
on the groove board ; make one row of 
creasing outside the stitches as on the traces. 
Line the body with something very light and 
finish the work as with other parts. For extra 
fine harness there may be four lines of stitching in 



148 Saddlerw 

the billet. Leave about 2w in. at the end of the 
slits unstitched for the dock, which must be lighter 
than for cab harness but of the same length and 
stuffed with linseed. 

When the dock has buckles, loops, and chapes, 
the slits must be stitched to the extreme point 
and finished like other parts of the body. Adjust 
the lay in the same manner with two openings, 
but as the body is lined, stitch it a little coarser 
than usual from the underside, instead of sinking 
the stitches. 

To make the hip strap for the breeching, cut 
the leather 4 ft. 4 in. by If in., and slit it at each 
end 1 ft. 5 in. by | in. The extra width between 
the two slits must be cut off at the top with a 
punch, the point of the slits being rounded and a 
wavy pattern cut on each side in the centre be- 
tween the slits. The edges being shaved and all 
parts rounded on the grooving board, an outer line 
of crease and another line for stitching can be 
made all round ; then make four rows between the 
central slits. A wave or other pattern is then 
pricked at each end of the middle rows unless the 
ends are covered by an ornament 

Another of similar size and pattern is now to 
be cut for lining the hip strap. After shaving the 
edges, stitch it with fine thread and finish off well ; 
about eight holes must be made in each slit, be- 
ginning at 4 in. from the point. These parts, 
instead of being tacked, can be pasted together 
and allowed to dry before being stitched. 

All lined straps for the best harness are stuffed 
in the centre, that is, shaves which are thicker 
on the outer side, owing to the way they are cut, 
are placed in the centre of the strap, the shaves 
having their thick sides abutting ; thus the surface 
w411 be rounded from edges to centre. Having 
pasted the pieces on the strap, lay over them the 
top part, rounded and pasted closely along the 



Set of Gig Harness. 149 

edge of the lining ; an ornament at the junction 
of the shts will be required for the hip strap of 
good harness. Cut a pear-shaped piece of patent 
leather a little wider than the hip strap, and make 
two rows of fine stitching all round. Stitch the 
inner row, singly, through the leather, place a 
lining underneath, and stitch the outer row 
through both, leaving spaces at the sides of the 
bottom and top end unstitched. 

Finish the edges and stitch the spaces through 
the hip strap for securing the patent piece. If 
this is adjusted singly, after stitching the inner 
row, stitch all round the outer one, raising the 
centre by stuffing it with leather. The metal or 
silver ornament can then be placed on the wide 
part, and then riveted, the legs being cut close 
below. 

The breeching is only 1^ in. wide, and there 
may be four rows of stitching all along. Stitch it 
finer and finish it better, rounding it well by plac- 
ing a piece inside. The bearers are finer checked 
and better finished. The breeching straps must be 
lined ; give them and the loops a neat finish. 
These straps may be 2 ft. 6 in. by 1 in., and, if 
desired, two narrow loops can be put on the top 
with one wider and stronger underneath. 

Some people prefer a kicking strap (Fig. 90) 
instead of a breeching strap, and in this case the 
breeching, shaft, and hip straps are not employed, 
the opening in the crupper being used for the 
kicking instead of the hip strap. For two-wheel 
traps the kicking strap must be 5 ft. 3 in., and for 
four-wheeled 6 ft. 6 in., long and 1 in. or 1| in. 
wide ; a lined strap should be made as directed 
for lining. 

If the kicking strap is in three parts (Fig. 91) 
two brass or silver squares will be needed with a 
chape at each end of the centre-piece round the 
square and one at an end of each of the points ; 



150 :.■ -Saddlery. 

when^ finished it must be of the same length as 
the full-length strap. 

A patent leather centre-piece, with swelling 
middle, may also be placed between two squares 
for supporting an ornament ; now join the centre- 
piece and points. There must be four rows of 
stitching in the ornamental piece on the hip strap, 
a metal ornament being placed in the centre. The 
kicking strap may also have in all parts two or 
four rows of stitching. After finishing, make half 
a dozen holes at each end. The kicking tugs 
should be 1 ft. long and of the same width as 
the strap. Having obtained proper kicking-tug 
buckles, put a loop below the buckle, line it like 

Fig. 90. 

FjV. 91. 

Fig. 90.— Kicking- Strap. Fig. 91. — Kicking Strap in 
Three Farts. 

the strap, finish, and make a hole 1 in. from the 
point. 

Single leather driving reins are made as des- 
cribed for van harness (see the companion volume), 
biit often have a piece on the centre of the fore- 
part, called " Melton reins " (Fig. 92). There is 
a thin neat strip of leather about half the width 
of the reins running all along the fore-part from 
the buckle to a little beyond the splice of the 
fore and hind part. The edges below are shaved 
and the strap is rounded in a groove board. The 
stitching is fine, with an outer fine line of creasing 
just outside the stitches, the centre being raised 
by placing a piece of thin string underneath the 
stitches and bringing it down over the string on 
both sides. 



Set of Gig Harness. 



*Si 



For this style of reins brown leather is em- 
ployed for all parts of the reins and not merely 
for the hand parts. The stitching is done with 
fine j^ellow or white hemp beeswaxed thread. The 
hand parts (Figs. 93 to 96) are sometimes plaited, 
laced, lined, etc., to give the driver a firm grip 
when driving a strong-headed animal. 

The lacing is made by punching holes about 
\ in. apart in the centre of the rein, for about 
3 ft. along the part held by the driver, and then 



°-°-^~"'^° 



Fi^^ 92. 



Fig. 1)3. 




Fiy. 96. 

Fig. 92.— Melton Rein with Billet. Fig:. 93.— Laced Rein 
Hand Part. Fig. 94.— Stuffed Hand Part. Fig. 95.— 
Lay on Hand Part. Fig. 96.— Plaited Hand Part. 

running a lace through the holes. Place the 
centre part of the lace under the rein below the 
first lower hole ; bring it up on both sides of the 
rein and run one point from each side down 
through the hole, and so on till the last hole is 
reached, where the points are stitched together on 
the rein. 

For plaiting, the hand parts must be cut in 
three strips, none of them being cut right off; 
plait them firmly, and finally bring the end through 
to fasten the plait. In working the end it has 



152 Saddlery. 

often to be put through the strips, and it is rather 
difficult to explain the operation. It will be found 
that as one end is plaited the other must be un- 
done, because, when fast, both ends get plaited. 

The stuffed hand parts overlap with specially 
dressed leather. Make a serge lay inside and 
Kcallop the upper edge very finely ; stitch one row 
from end to end at the foot of the scallop, and 
place a chape and buckle with a strap stitched to 
them at the end of the hand part. 

For a martingale a pair of ivory or bone stops 
(Figs. 97 and 98) wdll, in the first place, be required 
for the reins to prevent the rings catching in the 
bit ; two ivory or bone rings will also be wanted 
to match them. Stops can be obtained either to 




Fig. 98. 
97 and 98.— Rein Stops. 

run along the reins or be stitched to them. Cut a 
piece of leather, 1 ft. 3 in. by 2 in., to fasten to 
the rings, and slit it for 1 ft., narrowing it down 
at the other end to | in. Turn it in 2 in. at the 
end of the slit and narrow towards the bend to 
I in. ; shave the point thin. A groove in width 
equal to half the thickness of the leather must 
now be cut on both sides of the slit and very near 
the edge. Round the slits and get pieces of cord 
to put in both. Line the point below the slit from 
the commencement of the rounding of the slits to 
the end. Shave the ends of the lining thin and 
stitch it fine. 

The rings can now be stitched in the forepart 
and afterwards the round part stitched, the cord 
being kept deep down during the w^ork. Get a 
firm hold and join the end of the ring chapes and 
the points of the lining at the bottom with the 



Set of Gig Harness. 153 

round piece, making two good stitches through 
all at the beginning of the round end. Finish, 
close the grooves, well, and rub, round, and polish 
the material bright. 

The breast-plate part (Fig. 81, p. 133) can now 
be made as follows : — Cut a piece of patent 
leather, about 4^ in. long, to a fancy pattern, and 
swell it at the sides to match the drop-piece in the 
bridle and hip-strap piece ; narrow it gradually for 
about 1^ in. towards the top to | in. A buckle 
hole must now be made in the centre of the nar- 
rowed part, the point and edges being shaved. 
Then run two rows around with the race compass 
and prepare it for stitching. The inner row is 
stitched single leather, a piece of the same size 
and shape being cut to line it as far as the buckle 
hole and no farther. 

Having obtained a |-in. ring to match the 
buckles, cut a chape for it, which, when bent, will 
be 2 in. long ; shave the ends thin and narrow 
them a little. Now, quite in the centre, make a 
hole in the lining | in. from the bottom for the 
chape to pass so that the ring will hang down 
outside. Two rows of stitching must now be run 
upwards through the chape from the hole ; then, 
having placed the lining under the patent leather 
piece, stitch the outer line through both. 

Put the buckle on the top without turning down 
the chape, and make a billet 9 in. by | in. ; shave 
one end and round the other. After creasing it, 
prick the part to be joined to the buckle and stitch 
in the billet with a loop below the buckle, the 
end of this billet being below to join the lining 
previously stitched. The loop should be slack 
enough to admit two straps. 

When the entire piece is finished and rubbed, 
make a runner loop to pass on the billet above the 
buckle, and then cut a strap 2 ft. 4 in. by f in. 
wide. Adjust a buckle and loop to one end, in the 



154 Saddlery. 

reverse way to the usual position, so that the strap 
can be buckled back through it. Now make a loop 
for the bellyband and punch six or eight holes in 
it, beginning about 8 in. from the buckle and 
continuing in the opposite direction to it. Buckle 
s-o as to form a loop, turn the other end in for 
about \\ in. and shave the point, after which stitch 
it to the ring right side out and finish. 

Now stitch a |-in. double piece of leather to 
another ring about 1^ in. long when doubled, leav- 
ing an opening in one end and the ring in the other. 
The opening allows the hame strap at the bottom of 
the collar to pass, the billet of the martingale 
being fastened to the ring. Give this a neat finish. 
Now punch a hole in the martingale billet and two 
or three holes in the point of the ring part ; adjust 
the ring and small piece in the bottom of the 
collar to the hame strap and fasten the martingale 
billet to the ring. 

Buckle the ring piece to the buckle of the 
martingale over the billet and through the same 
loop ; this shows why the loop had to be made 
large. The girth must be passed through the loop 
part of the martingale. When driving, the reins 
must be put through the rings from the hand-part 
end because the stop prevents this being done 
from the billet end. 

There is another style of martingale made with 
a single strap, a buckle being placed at one end. 
The length should be 5 ft. Round the end opposite 
the buckle end for a distance of 2 ft. 4 in., placing 
a cord inside it to shape it and cutting a groove 
for the stitches. Make an eye for the noseband 
by turning the end backwards at the round end and 
then, having placed the points between the edges 
of the round, stitch them firmly ; give every part 
ar neat finish. Now put a chape on a l^-in. ring, 
leaving an opening at the other end for the hame 
strap, as in the other i?iartingale, this opening 



Set of Gig Harness. 



55 



being for the round part at the bottom of the 
collar running from below the chest to the nose- 
band. Having unbuckled the noseband, put the 
buckle part through the eye of the martingale, 
which will make all complete. 

A long breeching may also be made instead of 
the short one with straps to go round the shaft. 
The breeching should be 9 ft. 6 in. long by \\ in. 
wide ; taper it to the end to about \ in. for 3 ft. 
along each side, and then line it to within a dis- 
tance of 1 ft. 6 in. from each point. Owing to its 
length the breeching must be joined in the centre, 
the best end of the leather being always placed 



Fisr. 




Loop Backle. 



towards the points. Stitch the centre all along, 
the 18-in. part being single, with two or four rows 
of fine stitches ; leave two openings, one on each 
side, 1 ft. 6 in. from the centre for the bearers to 
pass and give it a neat finish. Make a chape at 
each end and prepare it for a buckle ; then punch 
six or seven holes on each side, beginning about 
6 in. from the end and moving towards the centre. 
Finally make four runner loops to pass round the 
points double. 

The bearers should be made like ordinary 
breeching and the hip strap like the kicking strap. 



156 Saddlery. 

but 4 ft. 4 in. long. The hip strap may also be 
made to act as a kicking strap as well, when it 
will be fastened to a pair of breeching loop buckles 
(Fig. 99), whilst the breeching runs through the 
loops in the buckle which acts as a carrier. The 
hip strap must be 5 ft. 6 in. long, made as des- 
cribed ; then make the kicking-strap tugs. Thus 
the breeching can be employed with the tugs tc> 
form a kicking strap as well or without them, and 
the kicking strap can be. employed without the 
breeching. 

Two dees will be needed in the shaft tugs to 
fasten a long breeching. When making it, take 
two 1-in. dees and fill the flat part of them for 
about half the width towards the round part with 
a piece of leather, then place them inside the side 
of the shaft tug in the centre on the part next 
the saddle, and stitch them as the shaft tug is 
made. When adjusting the breeching, after the 
loops, without bearers, have been placed on the 
body, put two of the runner loops in the points on 
each side with the buckles before them. Then run 
the points through the dees on the shaft tugs and 
through the loops, after which they can be 
buckled ; now tighten the loops, one near the 
buckle and the other close to the dees. 

As can be observed, the chape is made on the 
same principle as the bearing rein, and the buckle 
is never stitched down ; the breeching can thus 
be lengthened at both sides. There is another 
style of make which is a combination of long and 
short breechings ; for this, ordinary breeching 
rings, and straps round the shafts, also with 
bearers, are emplo3^ed. Other straps may be 
stitched to the ring and fastened like the bearing 
rein to the shaft tugs. Thus both styles are com- 
bined and the breeching is made doubly secure, 



INDEX. 



Albert Head Collar, 68 
Awl, Straight, 112 

Backband, 147 

, Repairing, 95 

Bars, Saddle, 10 

Basil Leather for Collars, 105 

Saddles, 12 

Bearing Rein Rounding, 91 

Bellyband, Repairing, 97 

Binding Sheets, 74 

Bits, 54 

Black Wax, 106 

Body Rollers, 75—80 

Bolstered Safe for Lady's 

Saddle, 32 
Boots, Buckle, Speedy-cut, 85 

, Fetlock, 85 

, Lace Speedy-cut, 85 

, Poultice, 86 

, Ring, 85 

Bow-top Whip, 113 
Boy's Saddle, 36 
Bradoon Chain, 134 
Breaking-down Tackle, 59—63 

, Breastplate for, 63 

• , Forehand for, 60 

• , Panel for, 62 

, Reins for, 61 

, Straps for, 60 

Breast Cloth, 70 

Strap, 46 

Breastplate for Breaking-down 
Tackle, 63 

Hunting Saddle, 41 

and Martingale, Com- 
bined, 45 

Ornament, 134 

for Stallion, 57 

Breeching, 149 
Bridgeband, Repairing, 96 
Bridle Buckles, 57 

— — , Exercising, 55 

, Fancy, 54 

for Gig Harness, 133 

, Lady's, 54 

- — , Pelham, 52 

, Riding, 51 

, Snaffle, 51 

, Stallion, 55 

, Weymouth, 53 

Buckle Speedy-cut Boots, 85 



Buckles, Bridle, 57 

, Girth, 47 

Buttons, Working, on Whips, 

Hunting Crops, etc., 126— 

132 

Cab Collar, 103 

■ , Lining, 104 

I Saddle, Panel of 

" Swelled," 110 

• , " Swelled " Flap, 110 

Caps, Knee. 84 

Carter's Whip, 113 

, Fixing Hide Point, 

119 
, Twisted Gut to, 

119 
Cavison Iron, 59 

, Covering, 59 

Chain, Bradoon, 134 
Chape, Whip, Repairing, 114 
Chapes, Renairing, 97 
Children's Saddles, 36 
Cleaning Harness, 100 

Whip Mounts, 113 

Cloth, Breast, 70 

, Collar, 105 

, Padding, 70, 72 

, Saddle, 49 

Clothing, Horse, 70—80 
Coaching Whip, 113 
Collar, 135 

, Albert Head, 66 

, Cab, 103 

, , Lining, 104 

, Cloth, 105 

, False, 86 

, Felt, 87 

, Forewale, Repairing, 99 

, Gig, 104 

, , Lining, 106 

, Head, 64—69 

, Lining, 103 

, Newmarket Head, 64 

, Queen's Pattern Head, 67 

, Quilted, 87 

Reins, Head. 68 

, Repairing, 99 

, Stuffing, 88 

Collars, Working, on Whips, 

126—132 
Corbett Martingale, 61 



'58 



Index. 



Cord Lash, Fixing, to End of 

Whip Thong, 118 
Covering Cavison Iron, 59 

Lady's Saddle, 29 

Pilch, 36 

Crops, Working Buttons, Col- 
lars and Ferrules on, 126— 
132 

Crupper, 40, 147 

, Repairing, 97 

Dealer's Whip, 113 
Devon Kerseys, 50 
Double-horned Jockey, 61 
Driving Reins (see Rein) 
Drop, 134 
Drop-thong Whip, 113 

, Joining Thong and 

Stock of, 118 

Dumb-jockey, 59 

Exercising Bridles, 55 

False Collars, 86 

, Stuffing, 88 

Fancy Bridles, 54 

Felt Collar, 87 

Ferrules, Working, on Whips, 

126 
Fetlock Boots, 85 

Lace 85 

Fitzwillikm Girth, 48 

Flap Cab Saddle, "Swelled," 

110 

for Lady's Saddle, 32 

, Saddle, 14, 139 

, , Adjusting, 18 

Forehand for Breaking-down 
Tackle, 60 

Forewale, 135 

Four-strand Button for Hunt- 
ing Crop, 132 

Gentleman's Riding Saddle, 9, 

20 
Gig Collar, 104 

, Lining, 108 

Harness, 133 

Saddle, 136 

Skirt, 136 

Tree, 136 

Whip, 113 

Girl's Saddle, 36 

- — - , Safe for, 38 

Girth Buckles, 47 

, Fitzwilliam, 48 

, Pilch, 57 

of Lady's Saddle, 35 

, Repairing, 97 

, Saddle. 47 

Straps for Saddle, 19 

Gut, Fixing, to Whip, 119 



Hame Tug, 144 

Clip, 92 

Hand-iron, 104 

Head Collars, or Headstalls, 
64—69 

Hide Point, Fixing, to Whip, 
119 

Hip Strap, 148 

Hogskin Seat for Side Saddle, 
29 

Hood, Horse's, 70 

Hoofswabs, 85 

Hook, Stand, 138 

Horse Clothing, 70—80 

Hunting Crops, Working But- 
tons, Collars, and Ferrules 
on, 126—132 

Saddle, Breastplate for, 41 

Iron, Cavison, 59 

Jockey, Double-horned, 61 

, Dumb, 59 

Joining Plaited Point to Whip 
Thong, 121 

Thong and Stock of Drop- 
thong Whip, 118 

Joint, Splice, 89 

Keeper, Whip, Repairing, 114 
Kerseys, 50 
Kicking Strap, 149 

Tugs, 150 

Knee-caps, 81—85 
Knee-pads for Saddle, 14 

Lace Fetlock Boots, 85 

Speedy-cut Boots, 85 

Lacing Reins, 151 
Ladies' Bridles, 54 

— - Saddle, 26—35 

, Bolstered Safe for, 32 

■, Covering, 26, 29 

-, Flap for, 32, 33 

, Leaping Head of, 34 

, Pocket in, 31 

with Quilted Skirts 

and Leaping Head, 32 

■ , Stuffing, 27 

Tree, 26 

Lash, Fixing, to End of Whip 

Thong, 118 
— -, Plaiting, 124 
Leading Rein, 57 
Leaping Head of Lady's Saddle, 

34 
Leathers, Stirrup, 48 
Lining Collars, 98, 103 

Gig Collar, 108 

Panel Saddle, 22 

Saddles, 98 

Shaft Tugs, 91 

Loops, Repairing, 97 



Index. 



159 



Martingale, 45, 152 

and Breastplate, Com- 
bined, 45 

, Corbett, 61 

Melton Reins, 150 

Mounts, Cleaning Whip, 113 

Newmarket Head Collar, 64 

Sheet, 73 

Nose-band, 133 
Numnahs, 50 

Overlap for Lady's Saddle, 32 

Padcloth, 70, 72 

Panel for Breaking-down 
Tackle, 62 

— Gentleman's Saddle, 

21—25 

Lady's Saddle, 35 

Pilch, 38 

Repairing, 98 

Saddle, 109 

, Lining, 22 

, Stitching, 24 

— , Stuffing, 23 
Pelham Bridle, 52 
Pilches, 36—39 

, Covering, 36 

■ , Girths of, 37 

, Loose Heads in, 37 

• , Panels for, 38 

, Stirrup Straps for, 39 

, Stuffing Heads of, 37 

Pillar Reins, 68 

Plaited Point, Joining, to Old 

Whip Thong, 121 
Plaiting Four-stranded Square 

Sennit, 124 

Eight-stranded Square Sen- 
nit, 125 

■ Reins, 151 

• Whip Lash, 124 

■ with Heart, 125 

without Heart, 

125 

Pocket in Lady's Saddle, 31 
Poultice Boots, 86 
Princess Check, 75 

Quarter Sheet, 70 

Queen's Pattern Head Collar, 

67 
Quills, Repairing Broken, 122 
Quilted Collar, 87 

Rein Stops, 153 

Reins for Breaking-down 
Tackle, 61 

, Collar, 68 

, Cutting, 52 

, Driving, 150 

, Head Collar, 68 

, Lacing, 151 



Reins, Leading, 57 

, Melton, 150 

— , Pillar, 68 
- — -, Plaiting, 151 

, Splicing, 90 

Renovating Harness, 100 
Repairing Harness, 89 

• • Saddlery, 89 

Whips, 114 

Reversible Saddle, 37 
Riding Bridles, 51 

Saddles (see Saddle) 

Ring Boot, 85 

Rollers, Body, 75—80 

, Stallion, 80 

Run, Spliced Leather, 90 

Saddle, Basil Leather for, 12 

, Boy's, 36 

— -, Breastplate, 41 

,- Children's, 36 

Cloths, 49 

Cruppers, 40 

Flaps, 14, 32, 33, 139 

, Adjusting, 18 

, Gentleman's Riding, 9—20 

, Gig, 136 

, Girl's, 36 

-, Girth, Straps for, 19 

• Girths, 47 

, Repairing, 97 

— — , Hogskin Seat for, 29 

, Kneepads for, 14 

, Ladies' Side, 26^35 

■, Leaping Head, 34 

Panel, 109 

-^— Panels, 21—25 

— — , Lining, 22 

, Stitching, 24 

■ , Stuffing, 23 

• Pocket, 31 

, Preparing Straining Web 

for, 10 
— -, Reversible, 37 

, Safe, 38 

■ Seat, 13 

and Skirts, Adjusting, 

17 

, Stuffing, 13 

, Side, 26—35 

Skirt, Gig, 136 

, Hogskin Cover for, 16 

Skirts, 14 

, Stitching Flaps to, 15 

, " Swelled " Flap Cab, 110 

Tree, 9 

, Side, 26 

, Gig, 136 

Underskirts, 20 

Saddler's Black Wax, 106 
Saddlery, Repairing, 89 
Safe for Girl's Saddle, 38 

Lady's Saddle, 32 

Seat, Adjusting Saddle, 17 



DEC 7 1904 



ROPER^S 
Practical Hand -Books 

For Engineers and Firemen. 



NEW REVISED AND ENLARGED EDITION. 

HANDY-BOOK FOR STEAM ENGINEERS 

AND ELECTRICIANS, 

PRICE, $3.50. 

PRICE. 

Ropcf's Catechism for Steam Engineers and Electric- 
ians, $2*00 

Roper's Questions and Answers for Steam Engineers 

and Electricians, 2.00 

Roper's Hand-Book of Land and Marine Engines, • 3.50 
Roper's Care and Management of the Steam Boiler, 2.00 
Roper's Use and Abase of the Steam Boiler, .... 2.00 

Roper's Young Engineers* Own Book, 2.50 

Roper's Hand-Book of the Locomotive, 2.50 

Roper's Instructions and Suggestions for Engineers 

and Firemen, 2.00 

Roper's Hand-Book of Modem Steam Fire Engines, • 3.50 



DAVID MCKAY, Publisher, 

J022 Market Street, Philadelphia, Pa. 

H 29 83 Ji 













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